Monday, December 13, 2010

Chaine Des Rotisseurs - a professional food photographer, and the coolest way to sign off from 2010.

Meet Mr. Jimson Bienenstock.

He is our new Director of Outlets

He is also very confident.

On a night of many stimulating firsts culinary-wise, his teaching of the history of the Champagne bottle and the method of sabering one was right up there on the "Man-that's-cool-to-know" meter. I am definitely a better person for it.

1) Use real Champagne.

2) Follow the seam

3) Be confident. (Just like my theory on perfect eggs!)



Seriously, how happy would you be to finally sit down to a setting like this on the 18th floor of the Royal York Hotel.

6 Course Menu with a Canadian Fairmont Properties Theme. For menu description, I have decided to borrow the Sommeliers tasting notes to write about each course.





Executive Chef David Garcelon with an obviously scared stiff apprentice... (yuk yuk yuk)



Ohh look I put a shot up of myself. Wicked!
Working the Caviar Station which happens to be carved from ice.

"Ontario Sturgeon Caviar and Wild Arctic Char Caviar with made to order Blinis, Chives, Shallot, Parsley, Chopped Egg Yolk, Egg White"


"Sashimi of Tuna, Yellow Tail, and B.C. Spot Prawn served with Seaweed Salad, Pickled Ginger, Julienne Cucumber, and Daikon, Wasabi, Soya Sauce"
2007 Hinterland Wine Co., Rose Sparkling, Prince Edward County, Ontario


The Fairmont Algonquin Hotel
Chilled Bay of Fundy Lobster, Dulse Dusted Diver Scallop, Nori Wrapped Balik Salmon, and Basil Aioli
2007 Daniel Lenko, 'Old Vines' Chardonnay (American Oak), Beamsville Bench, Niagara, Ontario
"A big warm year. American Oak to bring out the buttery caramel and vanilla aspects of the white fruit Chardonnay. Accentuates the seafood flavours."


Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac
Laurentian Foie Gras & Maple Creme Brulee, Foie Gras Lolly Pop, Ice Wine Gelee
2007 Huff Estates Winery, 'First Frost' Vidal, Prince Edward County, Ontario
"Grapes harvested at first frost, only partially fermented grape juice set aside then added afterwards leaving the alcohol short, good acidity and residual sugars - to contrast with the fattiness of the foie gras and compliment the maple."


Fairmont Chateau Laurier
Ontario Pheasant & Northern Woods Mushroom Consomme
Pheasant Roulade, Chardonnay Poached Quail Egg (Nage)
2008 Rosehall Run, Rosehall Vineyard Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County, Ontario
"French Oak, difficult year, leading to a more Burgundian style than the hotter 2007."

The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel
Spring Creek Ranch Beef Tenderloin & Braised Veal Cheek, White Cheddar & Buttermilk Polenta
2008 Black Hills Estate Winery, 'Nota Bene', Black Sage Road Vineyard, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
"Single vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot. Mix of new and old 80% French Oak, 20% American."



The Fairmont Empress
Opera Cake and Masala Chai
2008 The Foreign Affair, 'Recioto' (Primarily Cabernet Sauvignon), Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
"Partially dehydrated grapes, fermented, leaving residual sugar, 14% chocolate bitter sweet to compliment the opera cake."



The Fairmont Royal York Hotel
Ontario Cheeses & Royal York Roof Top Honey;
Glengarry Figaro Triple Cream, Glengarry Lancaster, Thornlowe Dairy Ontario Stilton, Thunder Oak Gouda
2006 Pilliteri, Fairmont Royal York Vidal Icewine, Niagara, Ontario
"Picked very late January, frozen grapes, crushed frozen. Stainless steel fermentation - Mango Passion Fruit."


Petit Fours



This is a great dinner to showcase before signing off BOHK for 2010. The event happened at the tail end of November and after that, Banquets was insanely busy for the holiday season. This is the overriding reason in my delay to post recently.

I am pumped for 2011 and focusing now on seasonal slow-cooked winter items with a strong dry red...

All the best for 2011!

-Jerek













Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Bordeaux Tasting Menu (and my admiration of how some people choose to live)


Reception
Salmon Caviar on Blinis (made to order)
Ducru Beaucaillou 1981

Scotch Quail Eggs
Pol Roger "Sir Winston Churchill" 1995


Mehmet decanting, straining, and sporting a wicked wide grin. He was obviously as happy as I was working this function.


*Click on the above photo to read the labels on the wines.


Dinner

Dunkeld House Smoke Salmon
Warm Sour Cream Croquette, Avocado Salad
"Y" d' Yquem 2000



Roasted Highland Quail, Stornaway Black Pudding
Braised Cabbage, Quail Egg & Sherry Vinegar Sauce
Ducru Beaucaillou 1982



For the quail... I was allowed to sample this... My knees still feel weak when I reminisce.
No tannins, many complicated layers... words... escape... brain...


Brig of Doon "Cullin Skink"
Smoked Haddock & Potato Bisque
Ducru Beasucaillou 1983


Tasting of Beef

Black Angus Beef Tenderloin,
Neeps, Tatties (Pont Neuf), Whisky Pepper Sauce
Vieux Chateau Certan 1990



Chocolate & Caramel Shortbread Tart
Drambuie Ice Cream
Sandeman Ambrosante, "Finest Palo Cortado"



Chef's Selection of Cheeses
Isle of Mull Cheddar, Iverlochy Goats Milk Cheese
Graham's Port 1985

Dark Chocolate Petites Fours
Selection of Single Malt Scotch
Oban, 14 year old ~ Glenfiddich, 12 year old ~ Glenlivet, 12 year old



It is quite clear to me that banquets is going to be a lot of fun. This night in particular was great. I love the combination of perfect food and wine. It's not even fair, I have a hard time seeing it as work when it's the only place on the planet I want to be at that moment.
Before that night I had never really been exposed to very awesome mature wines and the ilk. I was really impressed. Not so impressed as to go out and purchase a bottle in the low four-digit price range, but enough to purchase a few nice young Bordeauxs and ports to age in my own cellar.
Always thinking...
-Jerek

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Working with Iron Chef Kimio Nonaga and making sure he doesn't notice that my Mac is not an atom splitting razor like his is....

Things I wanted to steal but did not; the yuzu and mircoplane.
Butlered Reception, note I left the cling film on to prevent an Iron Chef from creating Jerek Sashimi.
"Nanami Lamb Tenderloin", Roasted Lamb Tenderloin marinated with seven kinds of spices.
"Tarabi-Gani & Shiro-Negi Salad", King Crab and Japanese Leek Salad, Truffle Oil & Japanese Mayo Dressing.
"Maguro Karashi Sumiso", Seared Tuna with Japanese Mustard and Miso Vinaigrette Sauce.
"Vegetarian Nama-Harumaki", Rice Paper wrapped with assorted Vegetables, spicy Sesame Sauce.
Otoshi (Cold)
Amuse Bouche
Italian Black Truffle Flan
Wine: Vino Spumante - Pinot
Cold Appetizer
Four Composed Japanese Tastes
Home made Sesame Tofu, Spinach Mushroom Medley, Foie Gras Opium Poppy Seed Pate, Satsuma Potato Beggar's Bag.
Wine: 2009 ll Vendemmniale Gavi DOCG
Toshi invading my happy spot. Slicing blue-rare wagyu rib-eye.
SASHIMI (TIEDE)
Kuroge Wagyu Tataki
Sliced Black Wagyu Rib-eye with "Ponzu Sauce", Shisso-Flavored Potato Salad.
Wine: 2007 Roccanivo Barbera D'Asti
Iron Chef Nonaga making a sample plate. We did this too, only without the chopsticks and sure handedness he seemed to ooze.
YAKIMONO (Hot)
Cherry Wood Smoked Miso, Marinated Canadian Salmon and Scallop.
Wine: 2009 ll Sensale Roero Arneis DOCG
TOMEMONO (Hot)
Rice-dusted Crisped Fluke with "White Snow".
To plate,
Iron Chef: Chopsticks.
Us: Fish Spatulas.
SHOKUJI (Hot)
Duck Two Ways
Steamed Minced Duck, Japanese Mushroom Rice "Puck", Simmered Duck Breast with "Hot-Spring" Egg.
Wine: 2005 Barolo Sant'Ambrogio
Dessert (Cold)
Nonaga Original Japanese Cheesecake, "Kinako" & Black Bean Ice Cream, Fried Sugar coated Sweet Potato.
Wine: 2009 Moscato D'Asti DOCG


Culinary Greetings! It has been a little while here at BOHK with an update, however it is the busy season up on 'C' Floor at the hotel and there is lots to do other then post post post. Today I have time so I thought I would showcase the 7 course Japanese Iron Chef for 150 pax we did recently.

Overall it was really really interesting to see the new ingredients and methods involved in such a different culture. I took away many new inspirations but left the yuzu and mircoplane behind!


-Jerek

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

End of my twenties (sound of clinking!) and Vanessa with her new Epic dessert offerings (note the dainty plate presentations!)

I recently turned an eye-popping, RRSP/health insurance severely-considering 30 years old!
To celebrate (term used loosely if not completely false), I insisted on friends and food.
We dined at Grazies, a well established Italian place with a low price point but traditional and tasty. With 8 people and more wine and prosecco than I will openly admit, the bill still fell well south of $400.
From there, everyone spent the weekend at my place and behaved themselves wonderfully (*cough).
*Special note, the Sunday crepe brunch at my place rocked.

Creme Brulee
Rooftop Garden Lavender Shortbread

*This is kinda cool. The pastry team takes some of the huge amount of lavender kept up on the roof and rests it in granulated sugar. From there it is a matter of making the shortbread. The lavender comes out brilliantly in the final product.


Strawberry, Pistachio, White Chocolate Semi Freddo
Wildberry - Chamomile Compote
Gianduja Crisp


Chocolate Banana Custard Cake
Almond Praline Gelato, Pate De Fruits

*WOO-HOO, my favorite dessert is finally on the menu. Je suis tres 'appy!




Hot Grand Marnier Souffle

Orange Anglaise, Chocolate Sauce

Perfectly old school and so so good.





I have news of sorts.

I have moved out of Epic and am now based primarily in the Royal York banquet kitchen. After more then 10 years of a la carte service, it is pivotal for myself to learn a new facet of this back of house industry. I will always keep my feet wet in a la carte (aka Epic, as its where my heart is) but for now I am incredibly stoked to work in one of the most busy and bustling banquet kitchens in the country. I have learnt so far that cardio is a great asset up there. Yesterday, I rode 30km on my bike to visit relatives and barely broke a sweat. Banquets will definitely be an awesome experience.



All that aside, this week marked the final week of my garden. All in all it was a huge success. 20+ lt. of tomato sauce, 6 lt. of vichyssoise, and pickled everything else. The winter is shaping up to be exciting culinary-wise at my home (Charcuterie!!).





-Jerek





Saturday, September 25, 2010

DiRoNA Gala Dinner, Chef Pino Posteraro, 7 Course Truffle Menu. ...you know,...no big deal...

Chef Pino Posteraro,
Cippino's Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca



B.C. spot prawn cocktail with tomato crudalola


The crust on the albacore tuna is a mixture of egg whites, cornstarch and panko bread crumbs. The nori/truffle combo was brilliant. One of my more favorite pairings that night.


Crispy B.C. albacore tuna, truffle roasted seaweed vinaigrette


Field mushroom, truffle "sfogliatina", provolone and tartufo
Essentially it's a duxelle, good cheese, with chunks of truffles all wrapped in phyllo. NOTHING wrong with that.


Roasted veal (sous vide) with salsa tonnata al tartufo
(Chef Pino's favorite dish)


Qualicum Bay scallops and polenta terrine, truffle-Balsemico vinaigrette

My first job when I got into the kitchen was to slice the polenta scallop terrine with Chef Pino. I asked him how he managed to get an ultra-smooth finish on the polenta and he replied that he fits in a ratio of semolina flour when making the recipe.

Also, please note the huge chunks of truffles in the pic above.


Massive amounts of assorted truffle sauces.

Nooo big deal.

Happens here all the time.


B.C. line caught, sustainable sablefish, savory zabaglione al tartufo
(Celeriac Puree, Heirloom Carrots, Truffle Foam)
I enjoyed the foam. This was accomplished by adding truffle to soy-milk, spring soda water, and soy-lethecin.


Porcini and chestnut soup, truffle chantilly


Plating up the soup for 200 people and to be "hand bombed" by servers.

The soup had to be whipped at the last minute with sour cream to give an airy texture. This is typical in an a la carte service, so I was impressed to see it happen in banquets.


The lost art of delicately mixing a picky high-end chef's tortellini and a very tasty and expensive truffle-wild boar sausage ragout. Special secret; use the back side of a serving spoon to move the pasta around and prevent any unnecessary grief.


Tortellini "alla Norcina", wild boar sausage ragout and truffle
(My personal favorite dish)


Peace County rack of lamb, eggplant salad, confit garlic lemon sauce


When we were plating up the lamb dish, I was responsible for dribbling the ultra-expensive olive oil on the dish. Within two plates being finished, Chef Pino came up to show me that rather then use 10ml of evoo per plate, he wanted about 25ml! He added that the olive oil does not just give a beautiful flavour, but as well enhances the residual sweetness of the dish.


Granitee of grapefruit with maple syrup marinated fruits


Sweet Fried Milk "alla Genovese" served with gelato al miele di tartufo


At last, the whole truffle menu.


This whole service was a good learning experience. It is not everyday the Royal York brings in a storage trunk amount worth of truffles for Chefs like Pino Posteraro to come show us the whole utility of them. I will make a special note that I wrote the menu items on BOHK exactly how Chef Posteraro wrote it out for us to work with. This is simply because it's all his creation and therefore his interpretations. Great night indeed.
-Jerek