Thursday, January 28, 2010

Wanna see what 7 skillfully placed components look like on a 4 inch diameter plate?

*ahem*
"Blow Torch Pineapple Carpaccio
Guava Panna Cotta, Crispy Gianduja Wafer
Pine Nut Nougat, Grand Marnier Strawberry
Candied Vanilla Bean"
Pastry Chef Anthony Galasso left to his own devices.
It never stops to amaze me the talent that resonates amongst our pastry crew. At Epic, they carry as much passion for their craft as the best of us do with our own. I love talking to them, and picking their collective brains. Usually, I will approach them and say "Gimme something I can make at home, I need a challenge". This is usually followed up with a recipe that they have just finished themselves, and it's always wicked.
I dig the fact that they as well are all-too-curious to see what is happening on the savoury line. It's not unnatural to see them on the sidelines asking poignant questions about certain techniques to a dish.
Anyways, I thought this dish stole the show last weekend when we did a 6 course menu. This is all Anthony Galasso's creation. ...though I am still waiting on his torrone recipe... ...just saying...
Guava Panna Cotta
Ingredients
800gr. Guava Puree
300gr. 35% Cream
100gr. Sugar
6 Sheets Gelatin
Method
1) Mix the first three ingredients in a bowl, separately hydrate the gelatin sheets.
2) Squeeze the moister from the gelatin, add to the mixture.
3) Using silicon molds, pour the mixture in. Let it set in a freezer for a cleaner finish.
Crispy Gianduja Wafer
Ingredients
100gr. Feuilletine
100gr. Gianduja
50gr. Nutella
Method
1) Over a double-boiler, melt the Gianduja and Nutella together.
2) Stir in the Feuilletine (a crispy cereal substance that doesn't loose it's crunch as easily as say, Rice Krispies)
3) Pour over parchment, and roll-out. Shape as you wish.
-Jerek

Monday, January 25, 2010

Duck - Harbinger of flavour!

Crispy Skin Duck Breast, Northernwoods Golden Oyster Mushrooms
De Puy Lentil, Calvados Jus
I have a new favorite ingredient right now. Duck Fat. Anything cooked in duck fat turns to culinary gold. I consider the duck itself just a bi-product of the fat. So here is something put together when we had whole fresh ducks come in.
The Duck Breast
1) Remove from the carcass, and cut the silver skin from the flesh. Score the skin an eighth of an inch deep. Season skin with Diamond Sea Salt, and let rest for 20 mins at room temp.
2) Using a pan on moderate heat, place breast skin side down. Let the fat render and allow the duck to slowly become crispy. The objective of frying the skin on a low heat is to give the best possible crispness while rendering most of the fat away.
3) After roughly 4 minutes (Use your judgment), flip the breast over, and finish in a 500F oven (about 2 minutes for Med. Rare). Remove, and let rest for 6 minutes at room temp before slicing and serving.
De Puy Lentils
1) Make a seasoned cured pork based court bouillon. Prosciutto, Guanciale, and Chobai make for great aromatics.
2) Cook the lentils in the broth until al dente. Strain, and chill for service.
3) At service, sweat a pinch of brunoise shallots in butter, add 2 oz. of the lentils, sweat for 30 seconds. Deglaze with veg, or chicken stock. Reduce to a binding consistency, check seasoning, add fresh herbs and serve.
Golden Oyster Mushrooms
1) Using a saute pan on high heat, add olive oil, and introduce the mushrooms. The objective of the high heat is to caramelize the flesh. Saute accordingly, 1 minute later, add a pinch of brunoise shallots. Saute for 1 more minute.
2) To finish, season with Salt, Black Pepper, a small touch of Garlic Oil (which you made yourself), Truffle Oil, and Fresh Herbs.
Calvados Jus
...Make a Demi from Veal Stock
...Make a Calvados Jus from that...
Finish with Beurre Monte.
Enjoy!!
-Jerek

Thursday, January 21, 2010

David beat Goliath, and I lost that bet...

Farmer Michael Schimdt



In my local foodie circle, following this case has been a source of irritation.

...you could say I thought he was getting a raw deal...! ...anyone?...

I was very happy today to spot this decision handed down by a surprisingly reasonable Justice of the Peace. It's nice to see the underdog win one, especially since that dog's product is wonderful. I want to own 1/200th of a cow now...







-Jerek






Farmer toasts win in raw milk trial with glass of the contentious drink

January 21, 2010



The Canadian Press


Farmer Michael Schmidt talks to reporters outside court in Newmarket, Ont., Thursday, July 31, 2008. (Colin Perkel / THE CANADIAN PRESS)


NEWMARKET, Ont. — Clutching a glass of raw milk, an emotional Michael Schmidt toasted what he called a victory for the local food movement Thursday after the Ontario dairy farmer was found not guilty of 19 charges related to selling unpasteurized milk.
"People need to learn how to stand up even when it seems it's impossible to achieve change in our interpretation of the law," said Schmidt, who was often depicted by supporters as the small farmer fighting for consumer food rights against an established milk industry.
In a legal battle that played out over three years, Schmidt fought to continue the operation of his 150-member raw milk co-operative in Durham, Ont., and defended himself against the charges for dispensing milk straight from the cow.
Schmidt was charged under the Health Protection and Promotion Act and the Milk Act after an armed raid by about two dozen officers and government officials at his farm in 2006.
While raw milk is legal to drink, it's illegal to sell in Canada. Officials consider it a health hazard.
Under Schmidt's cow-share program each member of his co-operative owns a part of the cow. By owning the cow members were drinking milk from their own animal, he says.
On Thursday, justice of the peace Paul Kowarsky ruled that Schmidt's method of distribution made the group exempt from the legislation. He also found the operation did not violate the province's milk-marketing or public-health regulations.
Kowarsky said the Crown could not prove that Schmidt had tried to market the milk. It was made clear on signs at the farm and at the blue bus where Schmidt set up shop at a Vaughan, Ont., market that only members could purchase products made from raw milk, he added.
"The undisputed evidence of the defendant is that there is no advertising or selling," said Kowarsky.
The legislation was originally created to protect the vulnerable, but the cow-share members were not vulnerable and were cognizant of all concerns associated with drinking unpasteurized milk, he added.
"They consume the milk at their own risk," said Kowarsky, adding the product had been thoroughly tested and was shown not to be contaminated.
At trial, food scientists and health experts testified that mandatory pasteurization laws are needed to protect public health.
Schmidt argued that government officials and food scientists could not guarantee the safety of any food, and suggested informed consumers should be able to buy raw milk if they want.
At the culmination of the detailed verdict, Kowarsky said the cow-share program was a "legitimate and lawful" enterprise and called the case part of a "search for contemporary justice."
A Ministry of Agriculture spokesman was not able to say if the ministry would be reviewing the Milk Act.
"We're disappointed in the court's ruling," said Brent Ross. "The government will review the court's decision and determine next steps."
Thrilled supporters, some wearing sweaters emblazoned on the back with "Team Raw Dairy," gasped and clapped as the justice of the peace handed down his verdict. The courtroom, packed with so many supporters that dozens were left standing, flocked to a teary-eyed Schmidt, as they flung their arms around him.
"He's giving us all a chance for the small farmer to enter into private contracts such as cow-share or farm-share agreements where we can decide what we buy, eat and how we behave," said a jubilant Judith McGill, a cow-share member who has helped rally support for Schmidt.
Outside of the court, two women poured and passed around creamy glasses of raw milk to people as children perched on signs reading "protect our food."
During the verdict, Kowarsky also acknowledged the growing trend towards the local food movement, and said he found many cow-share programs existed around the world.
This was a message not lost on Schmidt, who said the verdict had opened the door to new kind of conversation.
"It was never a war. It was a Shakespearean drama," Schmidt said coyly. "We tried to get into a dialogue."
Schmidt has not ruled out entering the political scene so he can push for the full legalization of raw milk.
"Like (former prime minister Pierre Elliot) Trudeau said, the government has no business in the bedroom of the people, and here I say the government has no business in the stomach of the people either."
For Allyson McMullen, Schmidt's win is also a win for consumer choice.
"It's so much more about milk. It's about food. It's about us having the choice to put what we want in our bodies and I think that this is incredible," she said.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Monday, January 11, 2010

Food Inc. and a humble soapbox.

Seared Tenderloin, 24-Hour Sous-Vide Short Rib, Quebec Fois Gras
Red Wine Jus, Truffle Vinaigrette.
No real purpose for the photo on this posting per se, but it is a great carnivores delight no?
I watched a good documentary called "Food Inc.", which has a left lean on the American food corporations and how they do business.
I enjoyed it, though I am also the first to admit that I am a hypocrite.
You see, I got in a decent debate with friends about this very topic. Out of 6 of us eating at Toritos in Kensington Market (http://www.toritorestaurant.com/), I was the only one to side with GMO's (Genetically Modified Organisms). My feeling on this issue is that there are concerns, (mainly, I am not a food scientist and am not privy to some rudimentary facts here) but I am not about to cause starvation for millions of people because of laymens' grey areas that I have with the subject by entirely ruling out GMO's on principle. It seems, as we all ate this amazing Chilean Tapas Feast that I was the only one to feel this way. I think it was more about everyone's lack of understanding the basic arguments involved. In regards to my friends, god bless them, they mean well, they'd love to buy local, "organic" is a word straight from Jesus, and it's all about Vegetarianism for a couple of them ...sheesh, but GMO's have a role too. A very important one.
The basic philosophy of the film was buy local, eat organic, use what's in season. As much as I buy into that, I still get cravings for fast food, which I deal with FOR ONLY $7 and 3 MINUTES! and having a habit of buying what's cheapest at the store (Though it's usually "fresh" and unprocessed) and not in season (I gotta have my blueberries in January...). See, I am a hypocrite, but everyone else is too. Nobody I know is 100% organic, local, sustainable.
My favorite one liner in the doc. was every item that rings through a scanner is a vote of food preference.
I love the idea of local, organic, sustainability. This year will be the first year I get to start up a reasonably sized garden, I have a cold cellar, where preserves are important, and prosciutto is cured. I make most dishes at home completely from scratch, and unlike most people, I am all too happy to kill things to eat on. ...though, I normally will use everything of the carcass if that's the case. ...I have Karma to live with...
I view GMO's in a grey coloured hue. Two opposite areas of my approach; On the one hand, some area's of GMO's (such as cloning) have been considered not to have had enough long-term studies to conclude their safety in our food chain. Contrast that to the current impact of bigger, fuller yields (like wheat and corn) in harder to grow parts of the planet through the work of people such as Norman Borlaug which has stemmed off starvation for millions of people (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_Revolution).
I lean towards the latter view for the sake of humanity. Having said that, I would love to see cloning labels attached to the products we buy in the supermarkets.
Any who, here is a link to the movie,
Happy watching!
-Jerek

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Christmas Eve 2009, 18 PAX, VIP, 18:00/ Recommend Mid-Course

Indulgence: 18 dishes for a party of 18.
Shucking Oysters with the man who introduced me to them in the first place. Grandpa.

Fun trick! When you have helpers, it's not always necessary for you to have to do the mundane jobs. In this case, I was all to happy to delegate my brother to mill 15 potatoes through a tiny ricer. Good man!

Dessert Spread

What it's all about.
Christmas Eve Menu
Thursday, December 24th, 2009
Starters
Seafood
Malpaque Oysters, Shrimp, Smoked Salmon, Lavash, Traditional Condiments
Antipasto
Prosciutto, Chobai Sausage, Grana Padano Parmesan, Oka, Artichoke Hearts, Egg Plant, Zucchini, Kalamata Olives, Sun dried Tomatoes, Anchovies
Autumn Salad
Mesclun Greens, Chevre, Toasted Chestnuts, Sun dried Cherries, Champagne Vinaigrette
East Coast Lobster Bisque
Lobster Medallions, Brioche Croutons
Mains
Spruce Tip Roasted Turkey
Grandma's Tourtiere
Truffled Mashed Potatoes
Brown Butter Biscuits
Heirloom Apple, Tarragon Sour-Dough Stuffing
Sage Gravy
Green Bean Casserole
Maple Glazed Carrots
Our Own Cranberry Preserves
Dessert
Toblerone Chocolate Fondue
Vanilla Bean Genoise, Banana, Strawberry, Marshmallow
Apple Pie
Sugar Pie
Pumpkin Pie
Grandma's Treats
Sucre La Creme, Mint Nanaimo's, Rum Balls
I had a lot of fun working with my Grandmother on the 24th with this menu. Thanks, and gratitude go to my young brother and sister who showed up and happily got bossed around for 5 hours. It went out well with very few casualties. I will note that suicidal chestnuts not only explode when put on broil for too long a period (I am going to cap them off to 4 minutes for now on...), but will leave trace amounts of themselves for weeks afterwards to let you know that they are a messy proposition to consider when putting them on the menu.
Welcome to 2010! BOH will be posting on a weekly basis with a refreshing emphasis on the new and untested. I have been spoiled throughout the holiday season and have 5 new books added to my library to give me ideas and motivation going forward into the new year.
Best Wishes,
-Jerek