Saturday, March 27, 2010

March Madness - a collection of the wicked that was the last couple weeks

We recently switched beef companies for our short ribs. The old company is on the left, the new (right side) is from an Alberta company called "Springcreek". This is our pinwheel cut Short Rib. We braise, then sous-vide the ribs for 24 hours. Note the cleaner, double twined product on the right. Most exciting if you notice is the sexy sexy marbling going on in there. Plus, the bone is longer. This product is doing really well.
I did it! I finally dones it! I got around to salt baking a trout.
8 egg whites, 4 cups Kosher Salt, I stuffed the trout with Lemon, Shallot, Garlic, Crack Black Pepper, Fresh Basil, and Olive Oil.
40 minutes at 425F, the down side being you have to clean the fillets after they cook, so bones can be an issue (new meaning to "I have a bone to pick with you" sorta deal). However, this turned out to be right up there with my favourite fish dishes. I look forward to entertaining guests with this.
The rest of the dish was a roasted cauliflower puree, and my preserved peppers from last summer.
FYI, I used the 8 egg yolks to make a Chai Creme Brulee.
I am loving my julienne cuts these days. I think I had a subconscious stroke that triggered my knife skills because all of a sudden, it just makes sense. ...so I took a picture to honour myself in all my glory. I keep my Mac ridiculously sharp lately too. I am sure this plays a subjective role.

Strawberry Espuma. Not Strawberry Foam.

Pastry Chef Anthony Galasso was working on a foam for an upcoming competition and asked me to try it out. My thoughts swirled around that the taste was dead on (Slightly sweet, and perfect tartness for Strawberry's) and it was very surprisingly light since it looked nothing like a foam.
A name change and couple tweaks where in order and Strawberry Espuma was standardized.

Strawberry Espuma (The Recipe)


Ingredients:
300 gr. Strawberry Puree
100gr. Raspberry Puree
2 Sheets Gelatin
80 gr. San Pellegrino


Method:
1) Heat the purees together enough to dissolve the soaked gelatin. Add the San Pellegrino, and chill for at least 30 minutes.
2) Pour the puree mix into a C02 canister. Load a C02 tank (the kind used to whip cream) with two cartridges.
3) Espuma away!


Before I jet for pretty much the rest of the month of March, I am leaving a link for anyone interested to check out. I will only say, ...not for me. ...not ...at ...all.


-Jerek

http://chefdanielangerer.typepad.com/chef_daniel_angerers_blog/2010/02/mommys-milk.html






Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Interesting Food Article

In this March 16, 2010 photo provided by Cornell University, Prof. Brian Wansink, holds a plate illustrating how food portion size has grown over the centuries, in front of a projection of Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper at Cornell University in Ithaca, N.Y.. The food in famous paintings of the Last Supper has grown by biblical proportions over the last millennium, researchers report in a medical journal Tuesday, March 23, 2010.


Study: Last Supper paintings supersize the food

By MARILYNN MARCHIONE, AP Medical Writer Marilynn Marchione, Ap Medical Writer – Tue Mar 23, 7:52 am ET
Has even the Last Supper been supersized?
The food in famous paintings of the meal has grown by biblical proportions over the last millennium, researchers report in a medical journal Tuesday.
Using a computer, they compared the size of the food to the size of the heads in 52 paintings of Jesus Christ and his disciples at their final meal before his death.
If art imitates life, we're in trouble, the researchers conclude. The size of the main dish grew 69 percent; the size of the plate, 66 percent, and the bread, 23 percent, between the years 1000 and 2000.
Supersizing is considered a modern phenomenon, but "what we see recently may be just a more noticeable part of a very long trend," said Brian Wansink, a food behavior scientist at Cornell University.
The study was his idea. For biblical context, he sought help from his brother, Craig Wansink, professor of religious studies at Virginia Wesleyan College in Norfolk, Va., and an ordained Presbyterian minister.
The Bible says the Last Supper took place on a Passover evening but gives little detail on specific foods besides bread and wine.
"There's nothing else mentioned. They don't say there's a fruit cup or carrot cake," though other foods such as fish, eel, lamb and even pork have appeared in paintings through the years, Brian Wansink said.
For the study, he used paintings featured in the book "Last Supper," published in 2000 by Phaidon Press. They include perhaps the most famous portrayal of the meal, by Leonardo da Vinci. Computer technology allowed them to scan, rotate and calculate images regardless of their orientation in the paintings.
Details are in the April issue of the International Journal of Obesity.
The study is "not very meaningful science," said Martin Binks, a behavioral health psychologist and a consultant at Duke University Medical Center. "We have real life examples of the increase in portion size — all you have to do is look at what's being sold at fast-food restaurants."
A more contemporary test would be to analyze portion sizes in Super Bowl commercials, he suggested.
"That would be a much more meaningful snapshot of how this society's relationship to food has changed," Binks said.

Friday, March 19, 2010

Terrine of Fresh Duck Livers

Fois Terrine hindsight note;
Use hot tea water to rest a very sharp knife in before using said knife to slice into the terrine. That way, you get a smooth velvety cut.

3 Lobes, though, I did not use my Mac on them, I used my fingers, a toothpick and turning knife to effectively remove the veins/membranes/crap.

The fois marinating in Quatre Epices.

One of the Royal York's newest Apprentices Marc, doing the grunt work of the project.
Joel Robouchon came out with a book in '91 called "Simply French". It's simple dishes refined. This recipe was in the book. While the simplicity aspect of the title does not always reflect the techniques involved, it does stress the importance of keeping the flavours naked. Note, this terrine does not have any booze or truffles. Just simple spices, and fois. That is all you taste. Enjoy it with a Grand Sauternes or a Gewurztraminer, toasted brioche, and pickled cherries.
The recipe itself is huge, so I will take the easy route and give general directions. HA. My blog.


-Start off by brining the whole fois for 6 hours in a salt water solution (2tbs. per litre)
-Remove, pat dry, and locate and get rid of all veins/membranes/crap. Re-assemble it back as best as you can, but most likely you destroyed it.
-Right away afterwards (Did I mention you are doing all this fois work over a towel to avoid the liver from slipping?), coat the livers (I used 3!) in Sugar, Sea Salt, Freshly Ground White Pepper, and Quatre Epices (equal ratios of Cinnamon, Allspice, Cloves, and Nutmeg). Cling-film firmly, allow to rest in the fridge for 12 hours.
-Using an enameled cast iron terrine, remove the fois and separate the two lobes. Using the large lobes smooth side down, cover the bottom, fill the middle with the smaller lobes and topping off the terrine again with the large again. Cut a parchment sheet to the size of the terrine service and place over the fois. Press down equally firmly to remove all the air pockets. Rest in the fridge for 30 mins.
-At the same time, heat a large pot of water to 176F, prepare your water bath by using a hotel pan, parchment covering the bottom and parallel cuts on it to damper boiling water.
-Insert the terrine into the hotel pan, add the 176F water to 3/4 of the top of the terrine. Place in a pre-set 250F oven (If using Convection, do at a lower temp). Cook at 25 minutes per pound.
-Remove from the over, remove terrine from the water bath. Pressing your hands over the parchment, pour out all the fat and liquids stewing around into a jug. Expect a lot. About 2 cups. Let the juices sink to the bottom and using a ladle, Gently pour back the golden fat into the terrine evenly.
-Rest uncovered for 3 hours in a fridge. Afterwards, cover with the cover for 12 hours to let the fat harden. From there, cling film the terrine to cover.
-Let the fois ripen mature for 3 to 4 days before serving.
-Jerek (With the help of Joel Robouchon)

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

FoodShare "Recipe For Change" Outside Event.

Wild Mushroom Chowder
Potato Confit, Prairie Grains
Rooftop Honey/Port Foam
Crisp Cheese Stick

My portable set-up.
This is relatively small and simple compared to some of the 25 other chefs at the event. A trick to a smooth "outside" event is to keep everything as orderly and simple as possible.

The Fairmont Royal York Executive Chef David Garcelon

FoodShare is an organization that has the overall goal of "Good Healthy Food For All".

They approach this vision through every link on the food chain.
The Royal York was all too happy to be a part of a fundraising evening February 25th to help FoodShare turn their vision into reality. I had the opportunity to attend and help out.

Wild Mushroom Chowder

Yield: 1lt.

Ingredients:

Butter - 2 Tbs.
Northern Woods Mushrooms (Oyster, Shitake, Lions Mane) Rough Chopped- 1lt.
White Mirepoix Rough Chopped (2 Onions, 1 Celery, 1 White Leek, Garlic)
Veg Stock - 1lt.
Aromatics Sachet (Bay Leaf, Peppercorn, Thyme)
35% Cream - To Finish
Truffle Oil - TT
Salt - TT

Method:

1) Melt the butter in a soup pot. Sweat the mirepoix and mushrooms on Med/High heat until the onions become translucent and the mushroom wilted. Cover with Veg Stock, drop in the sachet, and let simmer for 1 hour.
2) Remove the sachet, and ladle excess stock from the soup (Leave just enough to cover the mirepoix/mushrooms). Reserve the excess liquid just in case.
3) Using a blender, food processor, or hand blender, blend the crap outta the soup for at least 3 minutes. I then strain the pureed liquid through a fine chinois, but it's optional.
4) Whisk in the 35% Cream (about 100ml) until it's at a consistency you like (I prefer a thicker chowder) and incorporate truffle oil and salt to taste.

Optional Stuff!
Potato Confit; Brunoise a Yukon Potato. Slow poach it in Duck Fat with Aromatics until al dente. Add to the chowder. Let people bow at your feet in worship over the mysteries of this flavour.
Prairie Grains; Cook like you would a risso. Same outcome as above.
Port/Honey Foam; Sweat Shallots, Thyme. Delgaze with 50/50 mix of Port/Veg Stock, reduce by half, add 35% Cream. Reduce to sauce consistency. Season with Salt and Honey. Strain. Turn into foam a la minute!
Cheesy Sticks; Use puff pastry. Most of the worlds problems could be solved one way or another with puff pastry.

-Jerek