Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Fois Gras Mousse; the cook's tears of joy inducer. Judging; an experience.

Charcuterie! RUN PETA RUN!
The usual suspects; Cured Meat, Artisan Cheese (1608, Big Brother), Ice Wine Plums, Fig Jam, but note the Rabbit Ballantine hiding behind the Prosciutto. More so, the fois at the bottom of the pic is the recipe written below.
A mid course, but more importantly, another shot of the fois.

Proof I did go... Yup... can say I have been there, done that.
Moving on...


Proof I was in the arena with Chefs*

*by Chef's, two thirds present where teachers and instructors, so I use the term loosely. In fact, I still prefer and remain very proud to refer to myself as a cook.

The tasting.
God bless the sippy cup of water I clutched through this. Overall, it was a good experience, one which I took a lot away from.

A friend of mine I know through the C.W.C. program invited me to tag along as a tasting judge for the Skills Canada Culinary Competition. Based in Waterloo, it was our job to determine the national winner who were representing their province of residence. There were 12 dishes and by the end of the experience, at least for myself, just one clear winner. I will not go into further details but I will point out that I thoroughly tasted 12 meals, and only 1 (The Winner) was seasoned properly.
Last week, I was asked to prepare fois mousse and given a recipe by Chef. It was awesome. The marinated, cooking, and finally emulsion of the two fats really gelled well with the taste and texture. I will leave notes on how to achieve this god like ridiculousness from duckies below.
Fois Gras Mousse
Ingredients:
1.5 lbs. Fois (Cleaned)
2 oz. Cognac
1 oz. White Truffle Oil
S&P TT
Method:
1) Cryovac all the ingredients together and marinate for 4 hours refrigerated.
2) Sous Vide @ 212 for 4.5 Minutes. Check for doneness, it will be finished when the texture is identical to seared fois.
3) Remove and strain the contents of the bag through a fine chinoise (Reserve the fat!!!). Chill the fois (1 hour), and leave the fat @ room temp (actually, slightly cooler, like in a basement sort of temp).
4) Bring the fois back up to room temp and press through a fine mesh tamis (THANK YOU TAP PHONGS!).
5) In a mixer, whip the fois at high speed. VERY SLOWLY, incorporate only half the fat. Make sure the fat is more on the side of cold then room temp (fat at 11C is best. Anything past 12C will not emulsify properly and your eye will begin twitching). If you decide to spilt it (Insert swear word here), use small amounts of very cold butter to chill the fat. Season to taste.
6) Triple Cling Wrap a small Terrine Mould and pour the fois mixture in. Chill for 20 minutes before wrapping, and pressing with weights overnight (I use whole pounds of butter for this task).
Allow apprentices to rub your feet over the heavenly texture that is this accomplishment.
-Jerek



Monday, May 17, 2010

A random week worth of ramblings.

Random Shot #1
We are working on new ideas for Epic Lounge. This is Seared Duck Confit, De Puy Lentils, Chobai Sausage, Brussel Sprouts with Sundried Sour Cherries, and Preserved Orange Creme Fraiche. It's quite tasty, though, touches need to be made on the plating still.

Random Shot #2
Royal York Hotel Rooftop Honey Beer.
Mill Street Brewery introduced this awesome 6.5% Growler Beer to us this past week. It was interesting to discern the honey tones under the usual hops and bitter notes. Pretty Awesome. ...I like how it comes in a 1.89lt jug...

Random Shot #3
Astronaut Ice Cream
I have relocated my youth and it's only 21 grams and 110 calories!!!!
A "Mastermind" opened near my home north of Toronto so I stopped in to see if they still sold Astronaut Ice Cream and yeah, THEY DO! FOR $4!!! Never mind I am a fully grown mature adult with a valid drivers license and mortgage ...I took home 4 of them. I regret nothing. Best Day Off Ever.


Random Article of the week.
I usually post serious and very relevant articles pertaining to anything significant in my beloved field. I read this piece a couple days ago and figured well, frig, pretty much explains what I have been doing wrong when trying to recreate the same authentic smokey crisp dough I experienced over in Italy. As well, this truly takes creativity in the kitchen a step further then I have ever seen. ...I am sure there is something to take from all this if it's true:) I wonder how you could word that on a menu..

Enjoy!

-Jerek

Pizza in Naples may be baked using coffin wood: report


http://ca.news.yahoo.com/s/afp/100517/oddities/italy_crime_food_offbeat_1





Sunday, May 9, 2010

The cooks dilemma; what to feed your boss when he comes in to dine... (insert suspense music here!)

Michael Tan
The best Teppan Chef I have met; he also routinely works in Epic.
First course was easy. "Mikey, you're on cold right? Do something awesome and Japaneasy!"
Sushi.
Unagi, Salmon, and Oceanwise Tuna. Japanese Mayo (like regular mayo only with dashi in it).
The whole sushi is blow torched a la minute to give a really great heat and char taste to it. It was wicked.

Duck and Sherry Consomme, Duck Confit, Sunchoke, and Orange Gremolata Ravioli.
Parisian Heirloom Carrots, Candied Beets, and Tarragon Garnish
Big high five sent to 3rd year apprentice Kerwin for clarifying the consomme. He has won two competitions based on his clarifying abilities so it was only natural he was used here (to his chagrin as he was also trying to manage the veg station prep as well, BUT HE IS A CHAMP WHO BROADENED HIS SHOULDERS BECAUSE OF IT!)

Guanciale Wrapped Rabbit Saddle
Truffle Navy Bean Ragout
Wilted Spinach, Natural Rabbit Demi

Probably my favorite dish. When making the saddle cut, we centered it with the bunny liver and some parsley. After searing and roasting, we rested it in beurre monte. It came out insanely tender.

Braised 24-hour Sous Vide Short Rib, Fois Gras
Celeriac Puree, Cherry-Port Poached Heirloom Turnips
Brussel Sprouts in Bone Marrow Brown Butter
Pear Froth, Natural Jus


My boss, the Chef of Epic, Ryan Gustafson, came in to eat last night. Now, there are two things about that, first, people will ask if I ever get nervous or feel pressure cooking for famous people. The answer is no. Not at all. They are normal people like everyone else. I DO however, find my shoulders a little more tight cooking for other chefs. With them, there is less room for error and if that chef happens to be your boss, that margin goes to zilch! Second, when any cook comes into their own place of work to eat, it's a matter of manners to not let them eat off the menu. This is food they see all day 5 or 6 days a week. So, the Epic Chef came in, we did a 6 course menu. We finished off the meal with a cheese course (with Lemon Steeped Rooftop Honey), and Vanessa (I can do anything!) Fiorini pumped out her famous 'almost savory' Classic Chocolate Souffle and Creme Anglaise.

-Jerek



Monday, May 3, 2010

Chocolate Banana Custard Cake, The kryptonite of the recovering chocoholic 12-step program...

Chocolate Banana Custard Cake
Tahitian Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Caramel
I am succumbing to popular demand. I make no secrets, and hide no shame in my destitute addiction of chocolate. Life is far to short to deny something so... so meaningfully perfect. Chocolate is one giant metaphor for why life's worth living. ...exclude the new style Hershey Kisses from that last statement.
As I get older (mature) I find that I am gravitating away from the sweet milk chocolate of youth (naive hacks) to a more comfortable and purer 50-60% Cocoa Butter content. Not as sweet, but more chocolate taste with a fuller feel to it. Plus, since graduating from an advance chocolate course last year, if the couverture hasn't been tempered, it's complete crap in my books (and heart).
This dessert showcased represents everything I love. It's chocolate, it's simple, it looks bland and unassuming, so it surprises everybody who tries it for the first time. It is the victorious underdog of desserts.
You have fancy people coming over and you want to impress?
This is the dish you do. Enough people want the recipe, so I am posting it. Whoever developed this recipe really got the shaft on royalties.
Chocolate Banana Custard Cake

Ingredients:
200gr Butter (Salted)
130gr. Dark Chocolate (THE GOOD STUFF)
100gr. Banana Puree
3 lg. Eggs (Thx. Erin!)
80gr. Granulated Sugar
Method:
1) Preheat oven to 300F. Line a 6X8 pan with parchment paper.
2) In a double boiler, melt the chocolate and butter.
3) In a separate bowl, combine the banana puree, eggs, and sugar.
4) Add the melted Chocolate into the Banana mix. Pour the combined batter in the pan and bake in a bain marie for 27-30 minutes.
5) Chill in fridge.
You are welcome. I feel as if I have done my part for humanity.
-Jerek