Monday, February 27, 2012

Black Box, not just for crappy pilots...

Brodie, Me (CWC), Sous Chef Amira, Young Boy, Colin, Jessy
REEEEADDDDDDYYYYY?? ALLEZ!!!

In the culinary world there is a wide array of different fields cooks like to compete against each other in. This is mainly because the majority of us have egos the size of primal cuts of beef (HA!) and generally we spend our days trying to continually prove that I (you) am better than you (me and everyone else in the kitchen anywhere). Got it?

The only relevant test to prove ones superior culinary skill, manhood, heterosexuality, etc, is the black box exam. The premise is simple, the execution is exciting and full of cook on cook action which I love. I love the cook on cook action.

For those who don’t know, here is the premise. You are given a covered box with ingredients inside which you MUST use in your dish. As well, you are given a common box, which contain many secondary ingredients that you must share with your competitors but you do not need to use. Dry goods (salt, pepper, flour, oil, etc.) are always available. There is a theme given (Surf & Turf, Appetizers, etc.) and a timeline (anywhere from 30 minutes to 6 hours).

Cuisiniers! Knives sharp? EGO’S READY?? ANNNNNNNDDDDD GO!!!

Five of us superstar RYH cooks recently went against each other in a thirty minute black box exam to see whose back had the most silver hair on it. The theme was appetizers. The black box contained:

1) Diver Scallop x 1

2) 3oz. Black Cod x 1

3) Large Eggs x 2

4) ½ English Cucumber

5) Jalepeno Pepper x 1

The common box (ingredients being optional) contained:

1) Meyer Lemons

2) Whole Slab Bacon

3) Miso Paste

4) Sultana Raisins

5) Carrots

The competition was hilarious and amazing. Throughout the competition, everyone went dead quiet and kept their focus much like on Iron Chef (The Japanese version). It was serious stuff. For my part, I played the cocky loud guy (The Bobby Flay of the bunch) who at one point was deducted points for interfering with another competitor… specifically, interfering with his pants…

I will not judge or spew an opinion how anyone did as I do have to work with all these guys on a daily basis and they are for the most part bigger than me. I will note that every last one of the plates was completely edible which is perfect as far as my stomach is concerned.

-Jerek



Jessy, (Bonus points for firing off actual orders while doing this)

Jalapeno Thyme Poached Cod
Rendered Pork Seared Diver Scallop
Cucumber, Endive, Ginger Slaw

Mark (Points for being most molecular and cocky and doing his first black box!)

Scallop & Sable Fish
Maple Slab, Miso Broth, Poached Hen's Egg
Cucumber, Raisin, Riesling Gelee

Colin (Points for all the freaking fusion on one plate)

Diver Scallop Ceviche
Seared Sable Fish
Jerusalem Artichoke Egg Yolk Risotto

Jerek (Points deducted for the most unflattering photo)

Pork & Scallop
Jalapeno Slab Bacon Sous Vide, Sunny Side Yolk, Sultana Puree

Black Cod Escabeche
Grilled Endive, Citrus-Cucumber Slaw
Meyer Lemon, Honey Confit

Ian (Points for being the only one to attempt emulsifying anything in the comp.)

Panko Crusted Diver Scallop
Hollandaise

Black Cod Papillote
Jalapeno, Lemongrass, Green Onion

Lemon Jasmine Rice
Cucumber, Radish

Monday, February 20, 2012

Dear Alex...


I knew about you before I met you. Your high school instructor knew I worked at RYH and though I was a second cook he proceeded for thirty minutes to describe to me this kid, this high- energy kid that blew everyone away in the kitchen. I remembered your name clearly from that point on because I was already jealous.

You came to the hotel and immediately set yourself apart, not just from the other apprentices but from some full journeymen as well. By your third year, I couldn’t keep up. Your energy, passion, and enthusiasm in the kitchen propelled you beyond what we could offer and by the time it was your turn to leave, we were all better to have been in your wake.

I am so glad to have spent the time with you in the kitchen that I did. I can say you were the best I ever saw come in and will try to carry even a partial semblance of the motivation and quality you brought to your game daily.

I was in the kitchen with your friends and former colleagues when we learned of your passing. It was as if an invisible black hole was close enough to have sucked any energy out of the hotel. You are so missed.

I can only sit here, go over pictures of you at your best and remember what you taught those of us who were lucky to have served with you in the RYH kitchen.

God bless Brother and thank you.

-Jerek











Friday, February 10, 2012

Smoke: Both the literal and the lingual sides.

Cedar Wood Flash Smoked Black Cod, Jerusalem Artichoke Puree, Green Beans

Fire and smoking stuff (Food) is awesome. I have loved fire since even before my first trip to the Markham Fire Captain's office where he lectured me (a tiny, yet loving second grader) for lighting my parents bathroom on fire. Note to young self, towels are quick igniters.

Fun little story; my very first cooking experience was when I was 7 years old on a camping trip. My bro and I were playing with fire (as you do) near a lake when we noticed the crayfish were bigger there then what we were use to seeing. Feeling peckish, we grabbed a net and giant worms we dug up to haul in a half dozen. Using a metal coffee cup we thought nobody would miss and very little adult supervision, we built up the fire, brought water to a boil in the cup, threw in the crayfish and watched them grow red. It was awesome, fire, catching sea bugs, KILLING THEM, then eating the spoils...
We pulled them out, cracked their tiny lifeless claws and gorged in. I remember thinking they taste like garlic cheese puffs...
In hindsight, I am saddened we did not salt the water (or make a court bouillon for that matter) and most unimpressive, totally didn't eat the tail meat. Stupid little boys.

On the verbal side of smoke, I was annoyed to read about a Billionaire's off-comment regarding the potential health hazards of farmer's markets in Ontario. I have posted the link below, but here is my food for thought;

I have been lucky enough to live close to a farmers market in every area I have inhabited in Ontario and there is one pivatol difference I would like to make between them and a supermarket. Sense of community. I am a strong believer of local food identity and I rarely need to look further than the local farmers market to see what an area produces best. True, health hazards are a real threat and potentially more so in open air, but it's not a documented pandemic problem. I can't find any recent cases of mass poisonings stemming from local markets but how many recalls do we hear of from supermarket products?

http://www.680news.com/news/national/article/332258--country-morning-beef-burgers-no-name-club-pack-beef-steakettes-recalled

(knock on wood...THEN SMOKE IT)...

I think what irks me about the comment is that it was made from a dude who is a leading supermarket retailer and is motivated by the non-existence of those farmers markets, or, at the very least, the homogenization of them *cough LONDON cough*, which would take away a great source of community and local food identity.



-Jerek


http://ca.news.yahoo.com/blogs/dailybrew/billionaire-grocer-galen-weston-slammed-offhand-quip-farmers-204837861.html

Friday, February 3, 2012

I just noticed the first pic below could be packing a subliminal message...

4:00pm Oysters and an amazing Riesling. Annnnnnnddddd go!
5:45 Foie Pate, same Riesling. Note to self, going down SO smooth. (Continue on!)
A moment of admiration.
7:45, Amazing Lamb Course... Heavy heavy 2007 Minervois... Life is love... LOVE...is life.....
FOCUS JEREK FOCUS!
10 O'Clock Something. The highlight. $80 Barolo with the Veal. Grown men do cry together sometimes.
1:15 am (Strained to look at the clock). "You know, maybe we can hold off on the cheese course until breakfast." -Mentioned after us trying Quebec Maple Whiskey.
FOCUS STEVE FOCUS!

O
kay, I am going to copy and paste the menu that Steve (Shops for wines the same tedious way he shops for jeans) Ross and I shot back to each other a few times to finally get to where we wanted to go. Just a heads up, this took us 10 hours from start to finish and we did not get around to the manly cheese course... We DID drink most of the wine though.

Finally, here is your weekly link, and another reason I do not like Maple Leaf Foods.

http://ca.shine.yahoo.com/video/food-22429394/not-so-natural-deli-28187231.html



A Menu Which Shall Live in Infamy…

“Boys Day In, SO EVERYONE ELSE (Take a hike) MENU”

St. Lawerance Market Sourced Malpaques

Mignonette(Make a Double Batch Dec.23rd), Lemon, Tobasco, Black Pepper… Yea…

I’m thinking a Burgundian White here, or even an Ontario white from prince Edward county, they are super minerally and CHEEP! (like the budgee) So Totally Man.


2010 Willm Riesling Reserve Vin D'Alasce

~

Pate De Canard

House Pickled Garden Vegetables, Bread to start sopping up the alcohol…

Fois Gras, Chicken Livers, Shallots, Garlic, Thyme, Port, Sherry, Truffle Oil, Egg Yolks(?), Room Temperature Butter

I want to see a reisling here

I like where you’re going with this Frenchie. Ontario Reisling? Orrrr Alsace?

(Same Wine as Above)

~

Lamb Scottaditta

Sicilian Green Olive Tapenade

Green Olives, Shallot, Garlic, Chili, Rosemary, Coriander, Orange Zest, Anchovies, Pepper, EVOO

Lamb Scottaditta What is this?

I am intriqued, because if I agree to this dish, YOU will be spear heading it.

Olive Tapanade, little cute cubed homefries (crispy)

Californian Pinot or maybe a tempranillo/garnacha

2007 Domaine Pierre Fil Cuvee Elisyces Minervois

~

Barolo Braised Veal Ossobucco (Cheeks?)

Mirepoix, Garlic, Wild Mushroom, Demi, Barolo, Honey, Sachet – Sous Vide

Alba White Truffle Polenta, Spinach,

Natural Jus

2005 Andrea Oberto Vigneto Rocche Barolo

Braised Beef Short Rib I work shortribs to death everyday at work. I really super do not want this but I do offer two wildly wicked ideas I feel you would do for.A) Brunello or Something like it Braised Veal Ossobucco, Alba White Truffle Polenta, Wilted Spinach, or B) Spiced Braised Wild Boar, or Pork Belly, Basted Egg, Mushed Pea Hash

Make it sweet. Some sort of Awesome green here would be a great accompaniment.

Okanagan Cabernet/Merlot


~

It Sorta Feels Like… Warm Maple Pecan Pie

(Pate Brisee?)

Hot Cinnamon Spiced Clotted Cream

Quebec Sortilege

Warm Pecan Pie

Bourbon Crème Anglais

(I think we’re doing good for booze at this point) Good Call

~

Espresso with Booze

~

Fromage

Ash Rind Goat, Geai Bleu, Something Harder, Salty…

Honey and Bread

20 Year Taylor Fladgate Tawny Port

Dude I’m feeling Peckish..

Manly Cheese Selection

Stuff with mould on it

Unreasonably rare artisan stuff we will need to source and hide the credit receipt from the girls…

Fruity Fruit…

And Honey.

So totally! Done.



-Jerek