Saturday, February 6, 2010

An Epic Winterlicious, $45, 3-Course

Smoked Fanning's Salmon
100km Baby Watercress, Avocado Puree, Oranges,
Aquavit-Herb Creme Fraiche

or
Sleger Farms Organic Green Salad
C'est Bon Fresh Chevre, Beets, Apples, Pistachios,
Chamomile-Citrus Dressing

or

Local "French Onion" Soup

Spiced Wagyu Beef, Hercule de Charlevoix Cheese Crostini

The Main Course

Braised Lamb Shank
Smoyd Farm Potato Puree, Winter Vegetables,
Wild Mushroom-Syrah Jus

or
New Brunswick Salmon
Lentils Stewed with Chobai Sausage, Broccolini,
Sundried Tomato Bernaise

or

Spinach Tagliatelle

Walnuts, Northern Woods Mushrooms,
Geai Bleu Cheese, Cream Sauce

Dessert

Dark Chocolate Praline Torte

Raspberry Sauce, Apricot-Basil Compote

or

Espresso Brulee
Cinnamon and Macadamia Nut Biscotti


or
Pumpkin and Hazelnut Mousse
Maple-Ginger Ice Cream


In Toronto, a huge number of restaurants participate bi-annually in Winter/Summer-licious. It was created in the wake of the SARS crisis and has been a resounding success, so it stays with us. For two weeks during the winter and another couple weeks in the summer, we are invited to partake as a restaurant in this event. We of course always do.
It's a great way to get people excited about seasonal ingredients and a good deal to boot. This is also why it's bananas crazy busy during the 'licious period. To me, this is a good time to distinguish the good restaurants from the great ones. The good will focus their efforts on quantity. They'll tuck their heads down and pump it out. The great ones, the kind we strive to be, will focus on the quality. Bring the people in, show them what you can do (if this is what you can do with a $45 3-Course, wait til you see their a la carte sort of attitude).
Winterlicious is officially available everywhere until February 11th.
-Jerek





Monday, February 1, 2010

B.O.H., F.O.H. Communication (and the glass guard between us!)

Pre-shift meeting, 4:45pm.

Cold Plates for the meeting. Cooks are encouraged to attend to see what the official plating standard is. This goes a long way toward maintaining high standards, and keeping food cost predictable.

Fried Medjool Date, Geai Bleu, Watercress, Orange, Balsamic
(Beautiful Flavours)

Typical discourse and setting.

Fun Fois Course!
Macerated Cherries, Smoked Sunchoke Puree,
Oyster King Mushrooms
It's important in many different areas of life to fully open channels of communication. I particularly believe this is the most crucial obstacle to overcome in regard to creating and maintaining a great team at an upscale restaurant.
One way to encourage communication is through education. An important daily experience at Epic is the plate tasting for the servers during the pre-service meeting at 4:45pm.
Usually, one dish is prepared, and the servers will go through the dish with the Chef to find out the details: how it's made, what are the potential allergies associated with the dish, what wines are best suited, where do the ingredients come from, etc...
It's a great idea. It both keeps the cooks on their best form with continual reminders of the standards, and promotes knowledgeable and interested with the servers regarding the products they promote and sell.
It doesn't seem like a big deal, but it really does go a long way toward keeping consistent high standards both in the front and in the kitchen.
-Jerek




Thursday, January 28, 2010

Wanna see what 7 skillfully placed components look like on a 4 inch diameter plate?

*ahem*
"Blow Torch Pineapple Carpaccio
Guava Panna Cotta, Crispy Gianduja Wafer
Pine Nut Nougat, Grand Marnier Strawberry
Candied Vanilla Bean"
Pastry Chef Anthony Galasso left to his own devices.
It never stops to amaze me the talent that resonates amongst our pastry crew. At Epic, they carry as much passion for their craft as the best of us do with our own. I love talking to them, and picking their collective brains. Usually, I will approach them and say "Gimme something I can make at home, I need a challenge". This is usually followed up with a recipe that they have just finished themselves, and it's always wicked.
I dig the fact that they as well are all-too-curious to see what is happening on the savoury line. It's not unnatural to see them on the sidelines asking poignant questions about certain techniques to a dish.
Anyways, I thought this dish stole the show last weekend when we did a 6 course menu. This is all Anthony Galasso's creation. ...though I am still waiting on his torrone recipe... ...just saying...
Guava Panna Cotta
Ingredients
800gr. Guava Puree
300gr. 35% Cream
100gr. Sugar
6 Sheets Gelatin
Method
1) Mix the first three ingredients in a bowl, separately hydrate the gelatin sheets.
2) Squeeze the moister from the gelatin, add to the mixture.
3) Using silicon molds, pour the mixture in. Let it set in a freezer for a cleaner finish.
Crispy Gianduja Wafer
Ingredients
100gr. Feuilletine
100gr. Gianduja
50gr. Nutella
Method
1) Over a double-boiler, melt the Gianduja and Nutella together.
2) Stir in the Feuilletine (a crispy cereal substance that doesn't loose it's crunch as easily as say, Rice Krispies)
3) Pour over parchment, and roll-out. Shape as you wish.
-Jerek

Monday, January 25, 2010

Duck - Harbinger of flavour!

Crispy Skin Duck Breast, Northernwoods Golden Oyster Mushrooms
De Puy Lentil, Calvados Jus
I have a new favorite ingredient right now. Duck Fat. Anything cooked in duck fat turns to culinary gold. I consider the duck itself just a bi-product of the fat. So here is something put together when we had whole fresh ducks come in.
The Duck Breast
1) Remove from the carcass, and cut the silver skin from the flesh. Score the skin an eighth of an inch deep. Season skin with Diamond Sea Salt, and let rest for 20 mins at room temp.
2) Using a pan on moderate heat, place breast skin side down. Let the fat render and allow the duck to slowly become crispy. The objective of frying the skin on a low heat is to give the best possible crispness while rendering most of the fat away.
3) After roughly 4 minutes (Use your judgment), flip the breast over, and finish in a 500F oven (about 2 minutes for Med. Rare). Remove, and let rest for 6 minutes at room temp before slicing and serving.
De Puy Lentils
1) Make a seasoned cured pork based court bouillon. Prosciutto, Guanciale, and Chobai make for great aromatics.
2) Cook the lentils in the broth until al dente. Strain, and chill for service.
3) At service, sweat a pinch of brunoise shallots in butter, add 2 oz. of the lentils, sweat for 30 seconds. Deglaze with veg, or chicken stock. Reduce to a binding consistency, check seasoning, add fresh herbs and serve.
Golden Oyster Mushrooms
1) Using a saute pan on high heat, add olive oil, and introduce the mushrooms. The objective of the high heat is to caramelize the flesh. Saute accordingly, 1 minute later, add a pinch of brunoise shallots. Saute for 1 more minute.
2) To finish, season with Salt, Black Pepper, a small touch of Garlic Oil (which you made yourself), Truffle Oil, and Fresh Herbs.
Calvados Jus
...Make a Demi from Veal Stock
...Make a Calvados Jus from that...
Finish with Beurre Monte.
Enjoy!!
-Jerek