Thursday, January 28, 2010

Wanna see what 7 skillfully placed components look like on a 4 inch diameter plate?

*ahem*
"Blow Torch Pineapple Carpaccio
Guava Panna Cotta, Crispy Gianduja Wafer
Pine Nut Nougat, Grand Marnier Strawberry
Candied Vanilla Bean"
Pastry Chef Anthony Galasso left to his own devices.
It never stops to amaze me the talent that resonates amongst our pastry crew. At Epic, they carry as much passion for their craft as the best of us do with our own. I love talking to them, and picking their collective brains. Usually, I will approach them and say "Gimme something I can make at home, I need a challenge". This is usually followed up with a recipe that they have just finished themselves, and it's always wicked.
I dig the fact that they as well are all-too-curious to see what is happening on the savoury line. It's not unnatural to see them on the sidelines asking poignant questions about certain techniques to a dish.
Anyways, I thought this dish stole the show last weekend when we did a 6 course menu. This is all Anthony Galasso's creation. ...though I am still waiting on his torrone recipe... ...just saying...
Guava Panna Cotta
Ingredients
800gr. Guava Puree
300gr. 35% Cream
100gr. Sugar
6 Sheets Gelatin
Method
1) Mix the first three ingredients in a bowl, separately hydrate the gelatin sheets.
2) Squeeze the moister from the gelatin, add to the mixture.
3) Using silicon molds, pour the mixture in. Let it set in a freezer for a cleaner finish.
Crispy Gianduja Wafer
Ingredients
100gr. Feuilletine
100gr. Gianduja
50gr. Nutella
Method
1) Over a double-boiler, melt the Gianduja and Nutella together.
2) Stir in the Feuilletine (a crispy cereal substance that doesn't loose it's crunch as easily as say, Rice Krispies)
3) Pour over parchment, and roll-out. Shape as you wish.
-Jerek

Monday, January 25, 2010

Duck - Harbinger of flavour!

Crispy Skin Duck Breast, Northernwoods Golden Oyster Mushrooms
De Puy Lentil, Calvados Jus
I have a new favorite ingredient right now. Duck Fat. Anything cooked in duck fat turns to culinary gold. I consider the duck itself just a bi-product of the fat. So here is something put together when we had whole fresh ducks come in.
The Duck Breast
1) Remove from the carcass, and cut the silver skin from the flesh. Score the skin an eighth of an inch deep. Season skin with Diamond Sea Salt, and let rest for 20 mins at room temp.
2) Using a pan on moderate heat, place breast skin side down. Let the fat render and allow the duck to slowly become crispy. The objective of frying the skin on a low heat is to give the best possible crispness while rendering most of the fat away.
3) After roughly 4 minutes (Use your judgment), flip the breast over, and finish in a 500F oven (about 2 minutes for Med. Rare). Remove, and let rest for 6 minutes at room temp before slicing and serving.
De Puy Lentils
1) Make a seasoned cured pork based court bouillon. Prosciutto, Guanciale, and Chobai make for great aromatics.
2) Cook the lentils in the broth until al dente. Strain, and chill for service.
3) At service, sweat a pinch of brunoise shallots in butter, add 2 oz. of the lentils, sweat for 30 seconds. Deglaze with veg, or chicken stock. Reduce to a binding consistency, check seasoning, add fresh herbs and serve.
Golden Oyster Mushrooms
1) Using a saute pan on high heat, add olive oil, and introduce the mushrooms. The objective of the high heat is to caramelize the flesh. Saute accordingly, 1 minute later, add a pinch of brunoise shallots. Saute for 1 more minute.
2) To finish, season with Salt, Black Pepper, a small touch of Garlic Oil (which you made yourself), Truffle Oil, and Fresh Herbs.
Calvados Jus
...Make a Demi from Veal Stock
...Make a Calvados Jus from that...
Finish with Beurre Monte.
Enjoy!!
-Jerek

Thursday, January 21, 2010

David beat Goliath, and I lost that bet...

Farmer Michael Schimdt



In my local foodie circle, following this case has been a source of irritation.

...you could say I thought he was getting a raw deal...! ...anyone?...

I was very happy today to spot this decision handed down by a surprisingly reasonable Justice of the Peace. It's nice to see the underdog win one, especially since that dog's product is wonderful. I want to own 1/200th of a cow now...







-Jerek






Farmer toasts win in raw milk trial with glass of the contentious drink

January 21, 2010



The Canadian Press


Farmer Michael Schmidt talks to reporters outside court in Newmarket, Ont., Thursday, July 31, 2008. (Colin Perkel / THE CANADIAN PRESS)


NEWMARKET, Ont. — Clutching a glass of raw milk, an emotional Michael Schmidt toasted what he called a victory for the local food movement Thursday after the Ontario dairy farmer was found not guilty of 19 charges related to selling unpasteurized milk.
"People need to learn how to stand up even when it seems it's impossible to achieve change in our interpretation of the law," said Schmidt, who was often depicted by supporters as the small farmer fighting for consumer food rights against an established milk industry.
In a legal battle that played out over three years, Schmidt fought to continue the operation of his 150-member raw milk co-operative in Durham, Ont., and defended himself against the charges for dispensing milk straight from the cow.
Schmidt was charged under the Health Protection and Promotion Act and the Milk Act after an armed raid by about two dozen officers and government officials at his farm in 2006.
While raw milk is legal to drink, it's illegal to sell in Canada. Officials consider it a health hazard.
Under Schmidt's cow-share program each member of his co-operative owns a part of the cow. By owning the cow members were drinking milk from their own animal, he says.
On Thursday, justice of the peace Paul Kowarsky ruled that Schmidt's method of distribution made the group exempt from the legislation. He also found the operation did not violate the province's milk-marketing or public-health regulations.
Kowarsky said the Crown could not prove that Schmidt had tried to market the milk. It was made clear on signs at the farm and at the blue bus where Schmidt set up shop at a Vaughan, Ont., market that only members could purchase products made from raw milk, he added.
"The undisputed evidence of the defendant is that there is no advertising or selling," said Kowarsky.
The legislation was originally created to protect the vulnerable, but the cow-share members were not vulnerable and were cognizant of all concerns associated with drinking unpasteurized milk, he added.
"They consume the milk at their own risk," said Kowarsky, adding the product had been thoroughly tested and was shown not to be contaminated.
At trial, food scientists and health experts testified that mandatory pasteurization laws are needed to protect public health.
Schmidt argued that government officials and food scientists could not guarantee the safety of any food, and suggested informed consumers should be able to buy raw milk if they want.
At the culmination of the detailed verdict, Kowarsky said the cow-share program was a "legitimate and lawful" enterprise and called the case part of a "search for contemporary justice."
A Ministry of Agriculture spokesman was not able to say if the ministry would be reviewing the Milk Act.
"We're disappointed in the court's ruling," said Brent Ross. "The government will review the court's decision and determine next steps."
Thrilled supporters, some wearing sweaters emblazoned on the back with "Team Raw Dairy," gasped and clapped as the justice of the peace handed down his verdict. The courtroom, packed with so many supporters that dozens were left standing, flocked to a teary-eyed Schmidt, as they flung their arms around him.
"He's giving us all a chance for the small farmer to enter into private contracts such as cow-share or farm-share agreements where we can decide what we buy, eat and how we behave," said a jubilant Judith McGill, a cow-share member who has helped rally support for Schmidt.
Outside of the court, two women poured and passed around creamy glasses of raw milk to people as children perched on signs reading "protect our food."
During the verdict, Kowarsky also acknowledged the growing trend towards the local food movement, and said he found many cow-share programs existed around the world.
This was a message not lost on Schmidt, who said the verdict had opened the door to new kind of conversation.
"It was never a war. It was a Shakespearean drama," Schmidt said coyly. "We tried to get into a dialogue."
Schmidt has not ruled out entering the political scene so he can push for the full legalization of raw milk.
"Like (former prime minister Pierre Elliot) Trudeau said, the government has no business in the bedroom of the people, and here I say the government has no business in the stomach of the people either."
For Allyson McMullen, Schmidt's win is also a win for consumer choice.
"It's so much more about milk. It's about food. It's about us having the choice to put what we want in our bodies and I think that this is incredible," she said.

Monday, January 18, 2010