Sunday, December 18, 2016

Potato + Algorithms, a pressing matter




What exactly makes a good recipe good?  Is it the ingredients?  The methods?  The chef?  HIS GODDAMN HAIR? (Fuck!)
More to the point, what is the mixture of variables used and how much of each does it take to screw in a light bulb?

Answer: 42

I recently watched a Netflix documentary on algorithms, and I must say, I got it, I get it, yeah, thanks for the cheese.  Let me explain potatoes before I handle correlating quantum physics and particle theory.

In a nutshell, identify all aspects of what constitutes a recipe (ingredients and methods).  Add a value to each variable within each aspect, then conclude with a correlated ratio to determine the balance of each in order to replicate its properties within other recipes.

Or, I dunno... I guess.

You need to know my potato pave recipe is excellent.  

Lets say, if we were to muse a breakdown of the essential components of what constitutes a good pave, then extrapolate the core 'good' essence of their fundamentals, we could then be able to build a theoretical formula to mathematically tells us why my potato pave recipe is just so damn nummy.



Lets tinker
 
First, an itemized list of the ingredients with an assigned score rating from 0 to 3 to gauge quintessential 'good' significance each item attributes to the overall recipe.

Ingredients

Yukon Gold Potato (3)
Heavy Cream (3)
White Mirepoix (2)
Garlic (2)
Aromatics (bay leaf, thyme, white peppercorn) (2)
Parmesan (3) fuuuuuuccckkk yeah, ITS THE KING OF CHEESES!
Kosher Salt (3)

Next, a breakdown of steps used to produce the recipe, with again, a rating system from 0 to 3 to hone in on the significance and degree of attribution each step contributes towards excellence.

Method

-In a thick bottom sauce pot, add the cream with mirepoix, garlic, and aromatics.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat, let steep for 20 minutes. (3)
-Concurrently, peel the potatoes, and using a mandolin, slice to a thickness of 2mm. (3)
-Using a fine mesh chinois, strain the warm cream into a stainless steel bowl with the peeled potatoes. (2)
-Add parmesan. (3)
-Thoroughly mix the peeled potatoes and cream mixture together.  Take your time and peel apart the layers of potatoes to coat as many individual slices as possible. (2)
-Add salt to taste (3)
-Layer the slices of coated potatoes into a parchment covered hotel pan.  Go layer by layer, ensuring the levels are leveled.  Layer until finished - or until you reach a depth of 1 inch.  (3)
-With your hand, press the top layer down gently.  There is enough cream in the mixture if you see cream rise to the service when you gently press down.  If no cream rises, add cream.  Strain if the potato is drowning in cream. (2)
-Cover the top with parchment paper, then cover with another hotel pan.  Blind bake at 375F for 55 minutes. (3)
-Once cooked, remove the pans from the oven and place about 10lbs. of weights on the top hotel pan and allow the pave to cool for 24 hours in the fridge. (2)
-Portion as needed, reheat as individual portions. (1)


"Everything ends up better when they endure a little pressure" -me, just now

Next, we tally the variable numbers for both ingredients and methods and add up their relevancy scores within their own category;

Ingredients
7 key ingredients with a total relevant score of 18

Method
11 key steps for a total relevant score of 27

We may then deduce that, giving the ingredients score of 18 and methods of 27, the most common denominator for both would translate to a 2:3 ratio.

Therefore, based on my potato pave recipe, which really is fantastic, the key to a good recipe is to follow 2 parts good ingredients to 3 parts good techniques in execution.

Neato Right? 



The actual recipe is below - enjoy!

Jerek


Potato Pave

Yield: 1 Hotel Pan (25 Portions)

Ingredients:

25lb. Peeled Yukon Gold Potatoes
1lt. Heavy Cream
2 Shallots (Peeled and Rough Chopped)
2 Stalks of Celery (Rough Chopped)
5 Gloves of Garlic
15 Whole White Peppercorns 
2 Bay Leaf
10 Sprigs of Thyme
1.5 Cups Parmesan Reggianno (Finely Grated)
Kosher Salt (To Taste)

Method:
1)        In a thick bottom sauce pot, add the cream, shallots, celery, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaf, and thyme.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat and allow to steep for 20 minutes.  

2)        While the cream is infusing, use a mandolin to slice the potatoes about 2mm thick.  Place into large stainless steel bowl.

3)        Use a non-stick spray to cover a hotel pan.  Then place a sheet of parchment paper inside the pan to fully hold the potato mix.

4)        Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain out the cream and pour directly onto the sliced potatoes. Discard the remaining ingredients from the strainer.

5)        Add all of the parmesan and salt to the sliced potatoes.  Very thoroughly mix together – taking the time to separate the individual slices of potatoes, so as to ensure best distribution of seasoning and cream.  Taste a potato.  It should be slightly on the salty side, as the potato has yet to absorb any seasoning.

6)        Using your hands, pick up and evenly place the slices of potato onto the hotel pan.  Go layer by layer until all potato is used.  Ensure the placement of potato is equally layered and even.

7)        Ensure there is enough cream in the potato mix by pressing the palm of your pan down on the layered potato – if you see cream just rising to the service, it is perfect.  If no cream appears, add enough to facilitate.  If too much cream is present, you must strain out the cream until it is perfect.

8)        Cover the service of the pave with another sheet of parchment.  Then, place another hotel pan on top of that.

9)        Blind bake the potato pave at 375F for 55 minutes.

10)        Remove from the oven and place weights on top of the top hotel pan (About 10lbs is fine) and refrigerate for 24 hours, until completely chilled and pressed.

11)        Cut as needed and reheat in an over until warmed through.

Saturday, December 3, 2016

Basque in the glory - a tale of thievery and deliciousness


Behold; Above is almost everything I love in a dessert recipe. Sweet, warm, textural, simplistic, but with a hint of sophistication in the process to make one feel talented for attempting.   I introduce to you, The My Basque Cake.

I did not discover it, it discovered me.  Or, put another way, all of the following can be considered stolen.  See, basque cake is already a thing as the signature dessert at Bar Isabel in Toronto.  That is where I first had it and where I immediately decided to claim it as my own.  It was that good.  It belonged to me.  Apparently I have loose ethical boundaries.  Fuck it, it's mine.

I needed a solid recipe, so, like any curious and handy man working in solitutude, I used Google Search (Pro tip: When looking up recipes and especially pastry items, avoid using the words 'tip', 'cream', 'crust', and 'pie' if you happen to have delicate sensibilities).

The search for the best recipe was based on two criterial; the ingredient list our server at Bar Isabel divulged when I drunkenly launched my basic decency through a nearby window and threatened his well earned tip,  and which link had the sexist photo.

and this is what the magic that I take credit for discovering (click here)

Boom.  You're welcome.  Go to the link.  This dude did SO MUCH EFFORT and he kills it.  It's a great indepth post on everything you need to do to make the perfect Basque Cake and he did it, he posted it, and I took it, and now I don't have to rewrite and post an entire Basque Cake recipe.

Clearly someone owes that guy at least a beer.

So there you have it.  My Father, an artist of original context, said copying was the best form of flattery.  To Bar Isabel and Jeff from that blog post from 2010, you're welcome.

Jerek







Saturday, November 26, 2016

In the local composting community, I am kind of a big deal


Aurora ahead of waste diversion targets

SIDEBAR

For more information on how you can do your part, visit aurora.ca and york.ca.
Aurora Banner
Not everything is getting kicked to the curb in Aurora.
In 2012, the town collected 319 kilograms of residential waste per person including yard waste, source-separated organics, blue box materials and garbage. According to the latest solid waste program performance report, that number dropped to 297 kg per person in 2015 with the goal of hitting 289 kg per person by 2021.
“In three years there is a 21 kg drop, that’s almost one garbage bag per person,” Director of Infrastructure and Environmental Services Ilmar Simanovskis said. “Since we are already 70 per cent to our 2021 target, we may have to adjust those targets.”
Aurora resident Jerek Bowman is doing his part by participating in the town’s backyard composting program that was successfully piloted last year. A chef by trade and being a urban food garden enthusiast, Bowman jumped at the chance to divert what he could from the waste system.
“I liked the idea of utilizing 100 per cent of the food that was coming into my kitchen,” he said. “It is surprisingly easy, there is no smell and no pests.”
He set up the free composter provided by the town in less than 10 minutes and simply followed the instructions provided. When he has enough compost, he uses it on his gardens.
But even though the town is on track, improvement doesn’t come without its challenges. Food waste, blue box contamination, multi-story housing collection and light weighting of materials continue to have an impact on waste generation.
One of the largest opportunities for improvement is to increase awareness of food waste reduction.
“I think it is the nature of our society. We are an affluent community and we buy a lot of food,” he said. “We need to help people understand and realize that a few changes of habit can really help.”
This year, the town will roll out six textile or clothing collection bins around town to help divert discarded clothing from the landfill and give those who choose not to donate to for-profit organizations an alternative. The bins will be located at the Stronach Aurora Recreation Centre, Aurora Community Centre, Aurora Public Library and the Aurora Family Leisure Complex. Door-to-door collection will also be offered to 3,000 homes in the northwest quadrant of the town on three Mondays in the coming year.
In the fall, the town hopes to work with community partners to provide electronic waste collection bins in multi-residential units.
The town will also continue with its backyard composting program that was piloted successfully last year. The goal is to give away 200 backyard composters a year to residents who are willing to give it a try.
“The compost is designed to complement the green bin program, not replace it,” he explained. “While it doesn’t seem like much to reduce your green bin waste by 10 to 15 per cent, if everyone does it, it adds up.”
Further into the future, residents can expect to see curbside giveaway days, cameras installed at illegal dumping hot spots, public outreach and education campaigns, a mandatory diversion bylaw, fees for bulky items collected and a two garbage bag and tag system.
The town continues to participate in York Region’s SM4RT Living Program.

Sunday, November 13, 2016

Ricotta pancakes turn out to be the world's best thing


Ricotta Pancakes

1 Cup Flour
2 tbs. sugar
1 tsp. Baking powder
1/2 tsp. Baking soda
Pinch of salt

Wet mix

1 cup ricotta
1/2 cup milk (may need to add)
2 egg yolks
1 tbs. vanilla extract

Meringue 
3 egg whites stiff peaks

Method:
Mix wet into dry.  Adjust milk as needed for fairly thick consistency 
Fold meringue into mix
Fry in butter on medium heat

Sunday, November 6, 2016

Essence of a favourite service



Shrimp Scallion Dashi Mayo Cone
Gruyere Gourgere

Medjool Date, Geai Bleu, Guanciale
Cauliflower Truffle Panna Cotta, Brined Shallot
Hazelnut, Sherry Maple Gastrique

Crisp Potato Skin Black Cod
Celeriac
Pickled Shimegi, Asparagus, Tomato Preserve
Saffron Rouille, Smoked Duck Brodo

Parsley Crusted Lamb
Cured Boar Croquette
Sweet Pea, Sprouts
Carrot-Cumin Essence, Mint Yogurt

Almond Basque Cake
Warm Rose Cream


Monday, March 25, 2013

My honest signature dish and how I turned my childhood obsession with fire into a positive!


Ontario Burrata
Roasted Baby Pear, Rooftop Honey, White Truffle 
Fleur De Sel, Cinnamon Smoke


MEPS

Ontario Burrata - 1oz.
Roasted Baby Pear (Honey, Bay Leaf) - 1
Rooftop Honey - Drizzle
White Truffle - TT
Fleur De Sel - Pinch
Cinnamon Sticks - 2
Blow Torch
Bordeaux Wine Glasses
Fancy Plates

Method

1) Pat Buratta dry of excess liquid, place on centre of a very dry plate.  Squeeze your eyelids shut, calmly tell apprentice to always wipe his plates dry before plating...

2) Garnish the pear attractively. This will be the height of the dish so handle with care...the pear, with flair...I dare...so stare, and share on chairs etc... be weird around the apprentice. Make sure to give off a sense of unpredictability.

3) Drizzle the honey over the cheese. Impress the apprentice by steeping the honey bottle in warm water for 2 minutes to loosen just enough to pour smoothly. Verbally mention this.

4) Slice one decent piece of truffle onto the honey.  Tell apprentice it came from Alba, Italy.  Talk up Alba, Italy while preparing this dish.  Coolly explain why only the best white truffles come from Alba, Italy. Do not mention you suspect what you're currently using is likely chinese truffles.

5) Season with Fleur De Sel.  Look very concentrated and hunched over the plate while doing so.  Keep silent and immediately upon finishing, criticize the apprentice for not being ready with step 6 which you have yet to mention.

6) Blow torch two cinnamon sticks until the two ends are amber-red.  Using two inverted Bordeaux wine glasses, hotbox them with cinnamon smoke and quickly place them over the cheese.  Make sure you get the apprentice to do this in front of the pass - right closely to where the guests you wish to impress are seated so you can truly impress everyone -yourself included.

7) Allow the apprentice to urgently call-out for servers, stare at him until a runner picks them up.

Good man.
 
-Jerek

Monday, March 4, 2013

Never compete against a Benihana Chef with 40 years experience.

BETTING ENDS!



Meet Tomio Harikawa. 
Yesterday was his last day before retiring after cooking for forty years with Benihana at the Fairmont Royal York Hotel.

Tomio is literally the poster boy for this 1988 Benihana advert.

Out of curiosity and the need to preserve extraordinary skills for the archives, Sous Chef Tom "I know most people" Phuong and I set up a challenge to see just how fast Tomio was at one of the most core skills needed in teppanyaki -shelling shrimp.

To make it interesting, we gave him one minute against Sous Chef Tom as he too can peel a mean shrimp (any other kitchen he would be the fastest).
HA!  The pressure was on good sir.
.
Just to note, shelling shrimp for Benihana means leaving the splayed tails on, but shelling the annoying stabby top-part.



Total naked shrimps;
Tomio "Sayonara!" Harikawa - 15
Tom "Stop laughing at me..." Phuong - 7

My favorite part is how he just cooly walks away...
I am glad we were able to let Tomio feel good about himself over the expense of us.
 
Skill like that only comes from experience. Congrats Tomio!


-Jerek

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Mountain Dew has a new breakfast soda and on an unrelated topic, this week I started digging a bomb shelter in my backyard...

This is the wrong direction. Perhaps if it were more local...






This is a very bad idea.  No words will further enhance my position more so then the actual nutritional and ingredient content of this drink laid out below.

To all of you who think this is a good thing, while I am certified as a first-aid responder, no, I cannot administer the insulin for you.





Mtn Dew Kickstart - Fruit Punch 


Type: Bottles, Cans and Cartons Size: 16 fl oz


5 % Juice

Nutrition Info:
Serving size 1 container Per Container
16 fl oz %DV*

Calories 80 -
Total Fat (g) 0 0
Sodium (mg) 170 7
Total Carbs (g) 20 7
Sugars (g) 19 -
Protein (g) 0 0
Vitamin A - 0
Vitamin C - 100
Calcium - 0
Iron - 0
Niacin - 80
Vitamin B6 - 80
Pantothenic Acid - 60

Not a significant source of other nutrients.

*Percent Daily Values (DV) are based on a 2,000 calorie diet.
Calorie and nutrient values are rounded as required by the Food & Drug Administration.
This can produce irregularities among sizes. Product may not be available in all areas.

Ingredients:

CARBONATED WATER, HIGH FRUCTOSE CORN SYRUP, WHITE GRAPE JUICE
CONCENTRATE, CITRIC ACID, NATURAL AND ARTIFICIAL FLAVOR, SODIUM
HEXAMETAPHOSPHATE (TO PROTECT FLAVOR), POTASSIUM SORBATE (PRESERVES
FRESHNESS), ASCORBIC ACID (VITAMIN C), GUM ARABIC, CAFFEINE, ACESULFAME
POTASSIUM, SUCRALOSE, RED 40, NIACINAMIDE (VITAMIN B3), GLYCEROL ESTER OF
ROSIN, YELLOW 5, CALCIUM DISODIUM EDTA (TO PROTECT FLAVOR), CALCIUM
PANTOTHENATE (VITAMIN B5), SUCROSE ACETATE ISOBUTYRATE, PYRIDOXINE
HYDROCHLORIDE (VITAMIN B6)

Source
http://www.pepsicobeveragefacts.com/print_infobyproduct.php?bf=1372&b=1051&pf=1814&pu=1026&s=16

Related Articles

Mountain Dew Kickstart Breakfast Drink
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/02/11/mountain-dew-kickstart-breakfast-drink_n_2661188.html

Is it time to ban junk food?
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/commentary/is-it-time-to-ban-junk-food/article9049909/










-Jerek


Monday, January 28, 2013

A Chef’s Diet - 10 rules on how to eat healthy while maintaining your substance addiction.


You’d think cooks are the best foodies ever.  Look at them at work, obsessing over details, putting finesse in everything, and expressing tender feelings through violent outbursts.  They are the John McClanes of the foodie universe. 

Hans Gruber would have a gluten intolerance.
With passion like that, one could be forgiven to assume a cook would use those traits with their own dietary habits. 
 Well, as the saying goes, the shoemaker’s children tend to eat like crap.

Get back in the kitchen!
I remember asking the first chef I worked for what he ate on his days off. 
I was prepared to hear a velvety string of words describing something passionate and cozy. 
You know;
*a window into his heart oozing with affection…

*a tale of a certain dish or ingredient he could not wait to go home too…

*a sensual secret he longed for at the end of hard week… 

I suspected it would be the kind of intimate answer said in the same close knit tone which a good buddy would use if he were secretly showing you photos of his nude girlfriend.

The answer I got was "I dunno, usually Taco Bell..."

I had to raise my standards of where I chose to work.
 Cooks in general are terrible eaters and for a simple reason, they have no time. 
For someone slinging pans for twelve hours, it’s easy to fall into some pretty gnarly habits.


By the time they get off their shift, a cook tends to seek the most direct route to the highest amount of calories possible.  Leftovers from a sauté pan, fryer bowl refuge, red bull, cigarettes, coffee, cheap beer, and Spadina Street grub are all AAA sources. 

It all ends up tasting like sriracha.
While nothing beats Soju and Samgyeopsal Gui at 1am after a winterlicious service, this style of approach makes it tough not getting cremated earlier then assumed.

As someone who is legally responsible for the well-being of a daughter for the next fifteen years (well, thirty if her Italian roots have any weight), it was important to make adjustments to my diet to see my Chicky flourish past the developmental years.  In fact, as a father, it’s my goal to be around long enough to discreetly and seriously threaten my granddaughter’s boyfriends.

Future CMC.
My diet is definitely far from perfect (With my chocolate addiction I am supporting a least one Peruvian cocoa bean farmer's family), but I am asked all the time what I eat on my days off.
  
So here now is my soapbox, holier-than-thou, preachy list of guidelines I use as a chef, at home.

 Rule #1. Buy whole products, and avoid impulse shopping.  Eat first.  

Rule #2. Beef & Pork - Just once a week and like, 4oz. servings.  You may feel a bit less of a man, but your heart and prostate will be happier.

Rule #3. Live off sustainable small fish, bivalves, mollusks, and shellfish. And if you are wondering how to deep fry stuff like mussels, you are dead to me.

Rule #4. Eggs. Sous Vide in the shell at 146.5 for 45 minutes to be trendy. Eat in moderation.

Rule #5. Buy a whole chicken weekly.  Kill it, pluck it, roast it, and make a great dish the first night. Reserve the remaining meat for lunch and turn the bones into stock. 

Rule #6. Take acid.  A lot of sauces, starches, green vegetables, and lettuce do not always need salt to liven up. Buy lemons and good vinegar and use these to heighten flavour.

Rule #7. Have an unreasonably large repertoire of starches in the pantry. Actually, have a pantry too.

Rule #8. Vegetables and fruit are underrated.  For once, I agree with PETA.  Avocado and champagne mangoes are the foie gras of the plant world.

Staying on the good side of the these people.

Rule #9. Invest in breakfast.  A bound-mix of yogurt, berries, bananas, flax seed and whole oats provides huge amounts of energy for the day and also gives your war-torn colon the consistent schedule it needs.

Rule #10.  Learn to love cooking at home while listening to music.  Is anyone else really feeling that new Justin Bieber song? Because I am shredding it up! 

  
Not embarrassed. 


-Jerek