Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Just when I thought I lost hair working in a kitchen, I went ahead and made a beautiful daughter...

This shot is not nearly as funny when you happen to be the ever-worrying Father of this child. I have convinced myself she thinks this is her prune juice...

I would like to formerly introduce the newest apprentice of BOHK,
Ms. Meah Roselyn Ruthann Bowman.


Ms. Bowman brings a new exciting energy to BOHK with her constant high squeals of gratitude and loud shrieks of opinion. We look forward to starting out her apprenticeship with the very basics, from "Lait a la Mere" to "Goopy Oat Puree that she seems to really love" and beyond.

As the Chef of BOHK, I understand you (the eager apprentice) will strive to excel in your endeavours in the kitchen. I, (The Head Chef!) look forward to a respectable and mutual beneficial relationship in which we both shall learn, grow, and most importantly enjoy our time together when at BOHK. From the first moment I saw you, I knew you would be a perfect fit. On a side note, I have started a small collection of Bordeaux's (along with an RESP of course!) which you are allowed to enjoy (with me) starting in 2036.

-Chef (Dad)

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Jerek Bowman/Barry Mooney, Graduates of Molecular Gastronomy 101. Plus a little self BOHK promoting!

This is everything.

Actually, this is everything I could get into the shot. By far the best was the Reverse Spherical Green Olives seen in the center. It's best compared to laying on a beach somewhere tropical, finding twenty dollars, and paying off the mortgage; ALL IN YOUR MOUTH.

Chocolate Micro Sponge So cool. It's poured into a perforated paper cup, microwaved for 30 seconds and rested for a minute before serving. We played around with a Sweet Pea version as well. What I liked more was taking the finished product and dehydrating it to make it a cool crunchy garnish.

Lemon Juice in it's own little silicon molds... obvious...

Ohh... Reverse Spherification using Jasmine Tea... -then taking one of those nifty lemon ice cubes and putting it into the middle of the tea mixture to set it into a sweet freakin' rav. ...not so obvious...

Jasmine Awesomeness

Thermo Circulator. This one is only $750 (Can.) That is good news. Getting closer to justifying it at home...

Whoowhipped Aromatic EVOO... IN A CAN!!! This was golden. Add aromatic olive oil to an ISI Charger, N20 the dickens out of it and bobs your uncle. There is a similar method to producing Hollandaise via ISI as well, though, it does take a little time to Sous Vide the egg yolk/reduction mix.

Spherification... again... Melon and Cola. I think we are pretty much experts on this by now. Still a good trick to know though.

Chef John Placko schooling us at Humber College. Shown here creating "Carbonated Fruit". Take fruit, make sure it's cut smaller then the ISI Charger hole, launch it in with liquid (we like Grand Marnier) and C02. Fridge for a couple hours, dispel the gas (story of our lives...) and pour the newly fizzy fruit into a bowl. Serve with Sous Vide ISI Charged Sabayon because you are clever like that.

Fruit. Fizzy. Clever.

While you are at it... Take a bunch of tomatoes, blend them up with gelatin sheets and freeze the puree in a hotel pan.

The next day, wrap the frozen block into cheese cloth to form three layers and set on a cooling rack above a bake sheet. Walk away for a day leaving everyone in the kitchen awe-struck by your mysterious confidence.

Day #3 Strut into the kitchen and take the dispelled tomato water and add algin. In fact, go ahead and make a ravioli with it. Half way through setting the rav, whip out your trusty syringe and insert some basil oil into said rav. Let it set for an extra minute.

Place the beautiful "Spherical Tomato Water with Basil Oil" on any stupid random surface because you lack the foresight to find something that will make it visually pop. Next, taste it, or let someone you really want to impress taste it.


This is fun. Some people have strong opinions over molecular cooking. While cynics see it as a total fad, others are completely enthralled by anything coming from it. I tread into the grey here. While I think it offers some amazing methods and techniques, at the end of the day I will choose to use it as a way to compliment existing classic flavor profiles and combinations. It's a great tool to finesse, garnish, and make a dish that more interesting. More to come...


Finally, My editor said some shameless self-promoting was in order so we here at BOHK have some new links to hawk out. Observe the right hand side of the blog: note the RSS feed, as well you can now BOHK Yourself by subscribing to us through email, that way we can hassle you right on your 'pewter's front door. Lastly, enjoy the Video Foodie Bar and the snazzy new layout of it all. I'll leave you with one lasting proverbial question; why can't all internet browsers just get along?



-Jerek

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

Vanessa Fiorini and her cake and her french macaroons and her verbatim directions she sent me via BBM.

Vanessa Fiorini of Vanessa Fiorini Cakes.

Her link is located on the Foodie Section here. ...please look to the right.


I love french macaroons. Much more in fact then their runty little cousins, the coconut macaroons. I asked Vanessa to send me pics and a recipe from her Blackberry the next time she had to make them.

This is a great example how one cook will write a recipe out to another regardless of the degree of difficulty involved in the preparation. Here is what she sent;


336g ground Almonds

444g icing sugar

270g Egg Whites

75g granulated sugar

5g meringue pdr

Whip whites and 75g sugar and meringue pdr, sift together ground almonds and icing sugar in separate bowl. When whites are at stiff peak fold in icing sugar/ground almond mixture . Pipe on to parchment lined trays let stand for 20mins. bake at 300f for 15 min.





Thank you Vanessa for the recipe and pics and basically doing this whole blog entry on your own. Awesome. Thank you as well for not always sticking around the Pastry Department, thus leaving your freshly made french macaroons completely defenseless. Your honest negligence is my gain.






-Jerek


Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The Pressure of Making Beef Bourguignon in 30 minutes, The Yoplait Competition, and a Couple Sweet Links.

Barry ("Stop referring to me as C.W.C.") Mooney

Barry and I are currently running in a competition for Yoplait Yogurt. The rules are straight forward. Create one dish, either an app. or dessert which consists of 15% yoplait yogurt. Submit the recipe with photo. If they like what they see, a couple chef schools will recreate your dish. If they like what they taste, first prize is a thermomix. Second is an Ipad.

Stay tuned...


My mother bought me a pressure cooker for Christmas.


This is exciting because I produce a ton of pasta dishes in my domesticated Italiano household. Lo and behold, I do not always have time to braise lamb shanks for 14 hours to casually throw on a Gnocchi dish for two people. I do, however, have 1.5 hours. So this baby works great. Brown whatever, add appropriate vino, reduce au sec, add stock, sachet, cook for however long it takes to become love-me-tender, add mirepoix, cook accordingly, take credit for 14 hour braises. Bob's your uncle.


Behold; A lackluster photograph!


Straight from the pressure cooker; Beef Bourguignon, freshly made milk bread Take my word for it, this dish killed impressing people!*


*... my mom


Barry's stab at the prize;


Crisp Salmon Belly, Heirloom Beet Puree, Yogurt Basil Pistou, Watercress


Some links to check out;


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErRHJlE4PGI&feature=player_embedded


Above is what I think local, sustainable cooking is all about.


http://shine.yahoo.com/channel/food/625-for-worlds-most-extreme-cookbook-2464072/#photoViewer=1


Ever see a $625 cookbook before?


To finish off, a F.O.H. buddy of mine left some pivotal notes about wine that I thought I would copy and paste here. So, enjoy.


Serving Wine with Food What, When and How to Serve Wine

Here are a few simple tips for serving wine and creating successful food and wine matching combinations:

Serving:

- Serve lighter wines before more full-bodied wines, younger wines before older wines, whites before reds and dry wines before sweet.

- Serve the wine at the appropriate temperature. Serve whites too cold and you will not smell or taste much. Serving reds too warm will make them taste flabby and alcoholic. Reds served too cold will taste overly tannic and acidic.

Ideal serving temperature guidelines:

Sparkling Wine 6-10 °C

Rosé Wine 9-12 °C

Lighter, unoaked Whites 8-10 °C

Fuller, oaked Whites 10-14 °C

Light Fruity Reds 14-16 °C

Medium, full Reds 16-18 °C

Late Harvest/Icewine 4-8 °C

- Decanting may be necessary for mature wines that throw a sediment- mature reds or port-styles -which can be bitter to the taste. It is normally not necessary to decant younger reds and whites.

- In terms of glassware, the simpler and plainer the glass the better. Glasses should be clear with a long stem. Tulip-shaped for whites, with a more rounded and larger bowl for reds. Sparkling wine is best served in tall and thin flutes, while Icewine can be served in white wine glasses.

- Clean glasses in very hot water, with no detergent coming into contact with the inside of the bowl. Air-dry or wipe with a clean linen cloth. Avoid storing glasses in cabinets or cardboard boxes which can leave an odour and affect the taste of the wine.

- Fill glasses no more than two-thirds full, so that the wine can breathe and be swirled around for full enjoyment of the bouquet and aromas.

Matching:

- Match the weight of the food to the weight of the wine. Full-bodied dishes with full-bodied wines, light with light.

- Take the whole dish into account when matching. This includes the sauce and accompanying vegetables.

- You can also match the wine with the strongest flavour on the palate, eg. An apricot sauce accompanying a roast pork loin is more pronounced or flavourful than the roast itself and the wine should be chosen with that in mind.

- If you had to single out one attribute that makes wines easier to match with numerous food types and flavours, it is surely acidity. Without acidity, wine would taste sweet and flabby and make average-to-poor food companions.

- Wines with good acidity make an ideal foil for salty, smoky, oily or buttery foods, as the acidity cleanses and refreshes the palate.

- Wines with some residual sugar are good matches for spicy or hot dishes.

- Complementary and contrasting flavours can contribute to successful wine and food pairings. A complementary match is dessert with a sweet wine, where the sweetness provides the common bond. An example of contrasting flavours is a fish dish with a cream sauce paired with a high acid wine like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. The wine's acidity makes the sauce feel lighter and livelier and accentuates the flavour of the fish like a few drops of lemon would.

- Dessert wines should always be sweeter than the dessert.




-Jerek

Saturday, March 12, 2011

To the people who came up with wrapping a banana; will you have to SPLIT the promotion? A little sarcasm and a couple link-ups to awesome foodstuff.

Yea.... this did happen.
What is the freakin' purpose of this? Does this give assurance and confidence to domesticated non-cooks or something? I am hoping this is not ACTUALLY serious. No way right..? Currently I pay $.69 a pound for a pile of fair trade organic top of the line bananas. ORRR, say $.30 per fruit, kinda wonder what the new markup is for the designer packaging above.
Kinda feel a little barfy looking at it...

Ok, on a way better more positive direction in the culinary world, check out http://umamiburger.com/gallery/
They are a Cali. based Burger Joint that makes everything in house. They process their own cheese!!! It's gloriously greasy food done right. I hooked you up straight to their gallery of food porn.

SECOND! Del Posto Restaurant has a series of youtube clips that showcase specific recipes. THIS STUFF IS OUTSTANDING!! The music and editing are enough to make me very jealous and enviable over the crap videos I use to put out in my skate days (like...wow, 10 years ago....really??).
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=del+posto&aq=f

-Jerek

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

In Over The Head Dinner Menu. (Part 3 of 3 in a trilogy of awesomeness and glory on the edge of disaster with amazing saves.)

Arancini
Pea, Parmesan, Egg Yolk Explosion
Braised Pork Belly

Difficult To Do Right Polenta Terrine
Wild Scallop, Basil, Blood Orange Confit, Truffle Balsamic

Gnocchi
Sweet Lamb Sausage Ragout, Ricotta, Chilli Sprouts

Wine Pairing: Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Reserva DOCG 2007 Italy



Cleanser
Frosted Plum Soup, Ginger-Ale Caviar, Crème Fraîche Snow

Brined Lobster Under Pressure
Spinach, Pine Nuts, Sultana Raisins, Pressed Cauliflower
Oyster Emulsion, Atomized Rosemary

Wine Pairing: Domaine Barmes-Buecher "Herrenweg de Turckheim" Riesling 2008 - Alsace, France




Interesting Cheese Selection
Mimolette, Ash-Rind Goat, Something Borrowed-Something Bleu

Wine Pairing: Featherstone Estate Winery Select Late Harvest Cabernet Franc VQA 2008 - Ontario



EVOO Almond-Citrus Cake
Apricot Preserves, Moscato d’Asti Espuma
Cinnamon Fizz



There. That was fun. 8pax, 7 Courses, 5 Hours to eat, 4 Chefs throughout the prep and execution. I would really like to thank me.
Holy Crap I kid!
...and I suppose Mooney, Tinteri, Anins, and both Ross Brothers, one for the great photos, the other for going all the way to Québec for the perfect wine pairings.
-Jerek









In Over The Head Dinner Menu. (Part 2 of 3 in a trilogy of awesomeness and glory on the edge of disaster with amazing saves.)

Lobster Coins. I was inspired by a FCI tutorial on how to properly use Meat Glue. I added my own little finesse to it though. Brining, and sous-vide with clarified brown butter. Note the complete red meat on the outside, and pure white middle.

My fridge down in the cold cellar on Thursday, Feb 24th, 2011 (11:08 pm).

Barry, taking time off from chirping me to come up with what I consider to be the best brined/spiced braised/seared pork belly I have had.


Molecular Gastronomy finally came into my house. It was high time to learn about it.



Humour.

Honest!

HA! HA!



The Ginger-Ale Caviar set-up.
From left; Ginger-Ale Gel (Sodium Alginate), Calcium Chloride Solution, Water, Ginger-Ale steeped with Ginger and Lemon.





Ginger-Ale Caviar (Yes, it is liquid in the middle)



In the middle of the process for making the Wild Scallop Polenta Terrine.

This was the easy part. Cutting the whole thing was the tricky part.



Arancini Trouble Shoot Exam

So, the big issue with having an arancini stuffed with gelatin egg yolk is how long and at what temperature do you need to fry it so that a) It actually melts and does not remain a solid piece of crap, and b) It does not overcook and you look like a solid piece of crap.

We needed to know this before the dinner so we did a trial run...


The Answer;

350F for 2.5 minutes.




I was not kidding here. I really sprouted some chili. Look, I took a picture before I launched it into the Gnocchi.




-Jerek





Monday, February 28, 2011

In Over The Head Dinner Menu. (Part 1 of 3 in a trilogy of awesomeness and glory on the edge of disaster with amazing saves.)

In Over The Head Dinner Menu

Friday, February 25th, 2011

Arancini

Pea, Parmesan, Egg Yolk Explosion

Braised Pork Belly

To make the "Explosion", we made a Bechamel, added Parmesan to it, a couple sheets of gelatin, then tempted it into an equal number (by volume) into egg yolks. We let it set using Spadina Street Styles; we made the risso and stuffed it as much as we could (adding a whole pea as we went). Double breading it, we fried the balls at 350F for 2.5 mins. The freaking thing worked amazing.

For the Pork Belly, it was brined, braised in a Spiced Apple Broth at 275F for 4 hours, pressed in the cooking liquid, portioned, then seared a la minute.

To present, we strained the cooking liquid, added Blis Bourbon Barrel Maple Syrup, seasoned, and served.


Difficult To Do Right Polenta Terrine

Wild Scallop, Basil, Blood Orange Confit, Truffle Balsamic

For the Terrine, I made a force meat with the scallop, egg white, 35% cream, truffle, and seasoning, then ran the mixture through a tamis. I wrapped it in cling film tightly into a cylinder and sous-vide at 141F for 12 minutes in a court bouillon. Chilled it completely. I then made a bed of basil and gently wrapped it around the scallop cylinder and again, chilled.

For the polenta mix, I used by weight a 4:1 mixture of Cornmeal to Corn Flour for texture. I used a base of 1:1 Chicken Stock and 2% Milk. I finished with Parm, and Truffles.

I put a layer down into the terrine mold, followed by the scallop cylinder centered on top, after I poured the polenta to fill in the rest. I then wrapped tightly, and chilled completely.


Gnocchi

Sweet Lamb Sausage Ragout, Ricotta, Chili Sprouts

Wine Pairing: Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Reserva DOCG 2007 Italy

I followed my usual gnocchi recipe. The ragout was cool to make. I was inspired by the Del Posto Bolognese Recipe, so I made a brunoise of mirepoix, sweated it in a pan for 2 hours to an almost colourless paste. In a separate pan I slow-cooked the ground lamb to rid it of its fat and added it into the same pot as the mirepoix. Next I deglazed with a dry white wine, and stock. I added my own tomato paste and some 35% Cream. I simmered it for another 2 hours, then seasoned and smiled a lot.

The Ricotta was simple. Whole Milk, bring to a boil, add a pinch of Kosher Salt, Lemon Juice, let it split, strain, and let the curds drain in cheese cloth.

For the sprouts, I opened a few chillies a couple weeks earlier, placed the seeds in a container over some paper towels, and watered them daily and kept them in a warm dark spot. By the time the big night arrived, they sprouted lovely.


Cleanser

Frosted Plum Soup, Ginger-Ale Caviar, Crème Fraîche Snow

The soup itself Plum Confit, Coconut Milk, Vanilla, Organic Honey.

Creme Fraiche: 35% Cream, Lemon Juice, Kosher Salt - let it all rest at 16C for 24 Hours. Strain, Freeze what you need, and mircoplain to order.

Giner-Ale Caviar. lol. fun. Don't screw up! Bring 100ml Ginger Ale to a boil with some extra grated ginger and lemon zest. Strain into a blender and add 1 gr. Sodium Alginate. Mix very well. It will instantly thicken to a gel. You may need to eye ball this as scales suck at measuring 1 gram. Set aside and cool to room temperature. Next, mix 400gr. water with 28 gr. Calcium Chloride in a blender - mix well. Set aside.

To finish the caviar, use a syringe you got through ....a friend... and suck in some ginger-ale gel. Next, over the calcium chloride solution, squeeze the syringe to make drops of gel into it. Be consistent. Wait 1.5 minutes for the balls to set, and, using a small strainer, scoop out the balls. Right away rinse in water, then store them in ginger ale steeped with fresh ginger, lemon, honey.

Note- Taste the caviar - if its bitter, there is too much Calcium Chloride and you should add more water.


Brined Lobster Under Pressure

Spinach, Pine Nuts, Sultana Raisins, Pressed Cauliflower

Oyster Emulsion, Atomized Rosemary

Wine Pairing: Domaine Barmes-Buecher "Herrenweg de Turckheim" Riesling 2008 - Alsace, France

For the Lobster - Initial Brine: 1 lt water, 100gr. Sugar, 100gr. Kosher Salt, aromatics, rosemary, thyme, bay leaf, coriander. Brined the whole tail, vein removed from the bottom, and scored on the belly side for 5 minutes, rinsed out and patted dry.

Using transglutiminase (Meat Glue!) I "YingYanged"two tails together with their belly's touching, smeared them in clarified brown butter, and wrapped them in cling film to form a compressed cylinder. I sous-vide them @ 160f for 14 minutes to order.

Cauliflower Press was a simple pave.

The oyster emulsion was cool. I used the extra cream from the cauliflower press to cut it with soy milk as a base here. I dissolved lecithin into hot water and added it into the mix, finally at the last minute I shucked oysters and added them right before blending and straining the mix.

Atomized Rosemary. Take your average atomizer (from the dollar store), blow torch rosemary, add it to the atomizer, pump in air. As someone presents the lobster dish, you spray the room with the atomizer to give a great smell as people dance in jubilation.

Interesting Cheese Selection

Mimolette, Ash-Rind Goat, Something Borrowed-Something Bleu

Wine Pairing: Featherstone Estate Winery Select Late Harvest Cabernet Franc VQA 2008 - Ontario

The something borrowed was organic honey comb!

To present, Barry (CWC) Mooney, made a port and black berry "Thin Film" using Sodium Alginate solution to thicken the gel, and a Calcium Lactate mix to set it. The interesting thing here is that Barry had to use the atomizer to spray the Calcium solution onto the gel to make it work. So sooo cool.

EVOO Almond-Citrus Cake

Apricot Preserves, Moscato d’Asti Espuma

Cinnamon Fizz

Almond Cake - Basically a great cake made with Olive Oil.

Apricot Preserves - Make a Jam, Add Thyme

Moscato d'Asti Espuma - Bring 375ml Moscato to a boil, add 4 sheets bloomed gelatin. Strain into a 500ml ISI bottle, put in 2 CO2 charges, shake well for both, and chill completely before using. To use, shake well again, invert the ISI and discharge.

Cinnamon Fizz - 1/2 Cup Sugar, 1/2 Cup Water, Cinnamon Stick, 1 Chili, 1/4 tsp. Baking Soda, 1/2 Cup Light Corn Syrup, 20 gram Citric Acid. Bring everything but the citric acid to a boil and cook to 265f using a candy therm. Add the citric acid and cook to 300f. Pour onto parchment and let set solid. To finish, break off a chunk, put in a coffee grinder with a pinch of sugar, baking soda, and cinnamon and grind to a powder. Serve right away.

Jerek Bowman

Barry Mooney

Sara Tinteri

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Since awesome plates are known as "Food Porn", do I get to give myself a food porn name?

Conestoga College Alumni


As a graduate of Conestoga College's Chef Training Program (Class of 2002), Conestoga's Alumni Service approached me to do an interview about life after school. They sent along a professional photographer to catch me in all my glory. This apparently meant me standing outside in whites on one of the busier streets of Toronto in the middle of January. ...I think my chin looks fat...

My own cooking just for me. I enjoyed a hyper Hungarian-oak barreled merlot with this dish and I promptly fell asleep within 10 minutes of finishing. ...what else to do after I just enjoyed the highlight of my day!

My Gnocchi, Garden Pomodoro, Sicilian Green Olives, Sweet Lamb Sausage, Chilies, Anchovies, and beautiful Parm.


Simplicity; Not just the short-bus way...
Heirloom Tomato, Canola First Press, Aged Balsamic, Tarragon, Parm



Barry Mooney (cwc) and his Steak Tartar.


Oceanwise Diver Scallop

Northernwoods Mushroom Ravioli
Applewood Broth, Horseradish-Clam Essence



*Lately, I have ventured away from my classic French/Italian cooking methods in search of newer and better techniques and ingredients. I have been working along with different ingredients to get more of what I want. For instance, the Horseradish-Clam essence is Soy Milk based with Lecithin for froth. This enables a fuller more sea-foam consistency to sauces. ...plus it's a lot cheaper then using 35% Cream.

To make to the smoked broth, I cold-smoked a mirepoix, made a veg stock with it, then cooled the whole thing with the charred wood. I strained, seasoned and fortified it with brandy. I was really impressed to not detect any hint of bitterness.



Lobster Mac&Cheese

Coriander Bechamel

*I really enjoy the tiny ceramic dish for the presentation.




Wild Artic Char, Scallop Steak

Potato Pave, Edamame Puree, Turnip, Clam-Horseradish Essence


Surf & Turf
Eye-Cut Strip au sous-vide, Butter Poached Lobster, Pork Belly Potato Croquettes
Natural Veal Demi, Vanilla Sauce



This is a post meal, overstuffed shot of us after having a wicked low price point classic french fare meal at Le Paradis. I highly recommend you go here. I highly recommend you treat me there (thank you Marc Ross!!!).



January has so far played out to be pretty interesting in the kitchen. I have been working a lot in Epic lately so have brought along my camera and worked on some theories I have been thinking about...


February will be interesting as a couple opportunities have come up where I get to challenge my horizons and see what I can do in the thunderdome...back of house.


-Jerek
-aka- Jrock Serrano