I am very happy to let the photos in this blog do the talking as I AM NOW A JUNIOR SOUS CHEF AT THE FAIRMONT ROYAL YORK and really do not have much time to be witty and charming through words. Instead, my photos shall do the flirting for me.
I need to say this about Gramercy Tavern; Out of all the places I got to work in NYC, this was by far my runaway favorite. I have never watched such a united bunch of cohesive professionals before. Without exception, all of them, from the response to my first email onward were outwardly dedicated to a belief that everyone coming into their business should be treated in the highest regard.
I remain stunned by my brief experience there and consider myself in their debt for hosting me. As far as I can tell, this is the best restaurant, front and back, I have ever seen.
To all the absolute professionals who call Gramercy Tavern home, THANK YOU!
I hope I find myself in a kitchen with you again someday.
-Jerek
My biggest take-away came from this sous chef (Samoan... totally misplaced his email...dammit...). He confronted every little issue that arrived during service right away. One cook getting annoyed at another? No matter the degree, he approached them and burnt out the issue before it fanned into anything big. Communication was outstanding during his expediting.
Squab, Barley and Roasted Asparagus
Striped Bass, Radish, Turnip, Bacon and Beet Broth
Roasted & Braised Lamb, Green Garlic, Spring Onions and Ruby Crescent Potatoes
Hake, Spring Onions, Asparagus and Radish
Black Bass, Sunchoke, Shiitake Mushrooms and Smoked Jalapeno
LAMB AGAIN!
They pan-roast the loin and baste it lovingly stove-top before letting it rest to perfection. It was worth posting another shot of it.
Chilled Asparagus Soup, Lobster and Hazelnuts
Ramp Custard, Shiitake Mushrooms and Watercress
Beef Carpaccio, Celery and Anchovy Aioli
Cooks and their All-Clad. Jealous.
An amazing example of the attention to detail at Gramercy Tavern.
Someone smart from ancient Greece once said that every good
deed is inherently done with selfish intentions.Or, at least something close to that, I dunno... Philosophy was hard and I cook now so shut up.Just sayin’ there is merit to what he said.
At their core, everyone in hospitality exist to serve others.To what degree and whether or not pandering
to guests is a high priority varies from douche-bagrestaurants that do not take reservations (and make you wait 1.5 hours
for a table) to amazing little known small town guys who remain off the radar but truly put the guests' experience on the front burner (The New Dundee Emporium).
The best in the industry know to anticipate guest needs and to be proactive towards each individual.The endeavor to give their guests a perfect
experience should be every hospitality workers main ideology.
The best part of being a cook is the instant gratification.
You show up (sober), plan a menu, prep, produce, pump out and have (drunk)
people thank you for an awesome time.Generally, guests that can afford to eat at the spots I cook at are really
nice peeps.In Canada, Chefs are respected
professionals and it’s a plus to mention you cook when talking with sexually magnificent
hotties, bodies, er, MY WIFE!.We’re fortunate because we do not have any obvious economic class
division.I love how I can cook for
people who happen to be worth billions but then have an insightful chat about their
personal vineyards afterword.“Yeah, I
have the SAME mould problem as your grapes, only in my bedroom walls….”.
Other areas I have visited
and spent time in a kitchen, Cooks are often regarded like second class citizens.It’s sad.Guests look at them with the same expression you would give your caller
ID when it shows a telemarketer.In 13
years I have only had two experiences where I was made to feel less than
totally awesome wearing whites.First
was a Bay Street Lawyer who publicly lectured me on the methods of a proper lobster bisque; “Iiiiii liiiikkkeee to use the insides of the lobster…. Do
you know what thats called?”
Moi; “Ah, lobster
bisque 101 AND WHY WON’T YOU MAKE EYE CONTACT WITH ME???”.
And second, there is
nothing fun about having a shithead ten year old snap his fingers at you to
make an omelet.In hindsight, I should
totally have taken him.
This brings me to what really is the heart of passion in
hospitality.Recently, while on a grand
tour doing big stagiaires at some of the world’s most blahblabblabhblahblah, my
schedule unexpectedly opened up for a day. A whole day of nothing.Except I was in NYC and if there was one
thing I wanted to do without the need for a new line of credit, it was to experience time in a soup kitchen.
To me, nothing is more gratifying then to serve those that
most appreciate what they’re receiving.It’s a selfish magical experience.You feel really good about yourself while concurrently helping people
who are in a position you could not imagine being in. What pierces into me every time and anywhere I have been is more often than not, they look you right
in the eyes and thank you.It’s both a positive
and heart aching moment. You look past the rough hides and speculated back stories, to see the
honest sincerity they give back. It exerts some of the finest points of human
essence at its purist.
So there I was at 9:00 am in New York.I was sipping a designer Americano and
walking towards Holy Apostles Soup Kitchen when I turned the last corner to
find a lineup of 200 people deep, obviously waiting for the place to open.These were not the volunteers and the kitchen
opened at 10:30.
SOooo here's the thing, and I am totally not to cool to admit this,
but what the hell, honest writing is good writing.
I quickened my pace, avoided eye contact, and walked right past the kitchen and
line up.
Um…
Okay.
Let me just say, if I had been standing in that lineup of
200 people… You would pick me out if you heard that Sesame Street Songs that
goes; “One of these things is not like the other. One of these things is
just not the same…”
Awful right?
I walked past while asking what had I gotten myself into. I turned the corner a block later and hated the timid bed wetter in me.These people are hungry now. They have no time for uptown issues I have. I did believe these guests are fundamentally better then me. They deserve the best. Nobody knew I was here doing this.Nobody would ever know if I never went. But I
would. Talk is cheap. Time to walk.
I turned around, politely cut through the line and entered
the church.
Do you know how many people the 30 daily volunteers feed in
2 hours? We had an average day, 1221.
I walked in and spoke with someone with a wire sticking from
their ear and said I was a “Chef from a big hotel in Toronto”. They were thankful, gave a smile/smock and instructed me
to wait for the position details to be announced.
I was given highest volunteer honors by
being assigned as Champion Protein Server* in the lead production line ("Jerek, Protein, Line 1!") .
It was frigging hard. Carpal tunnel will
catch up to me anytime now.
To my utter surprise, the paid Chef and regular volunteers take their jobs really serious.Like,
Asshole michelin place serious. After sensing the stern vibe, I became concerned I may not perform precisely as they required and consequently would be
yelled at.Luckily, I was stationed
next to an adorable, but hapless primary school teacher who bore the brunt of their venting and
so I was spared.
:(
Honesty making good writing,
…I should say I also passively
screwed him a little by moving quicker then he could do his job cleanly.
Sorry man, I never said I was a good guy.
There are places like Apostles Soup Kitchen everywhere.You love to cook? Go.Like me, this is where you may find your core
values as a human being.
This was literally the only photo I had time to sneak.
To those well tuned to the international staging scene,
you may be skeptical to my claim of working in Daniel,The flagship restaurant of Chef Daniel Boulud. That would make sense, because it’s a fact that he does not
accept stagiaires off the street and also I tend to lie for attention. However,
and I am seriously being serious here, I got lucky. A know a guy who knows a
guy who knows a guy conveniently at the helm of this Three-Michelin rated establishment.
After a couple email exchanges sent back and forth to
establish how runnnn-Forest-runnnn lucky I was and other details, I was on my
way. Immediately upon arrival I set myself apart from the rest of the
English-speaking world by misreading simple emailed instructions and accidentally
entered into the main dining room to report for duty.
So I got to see the F.O.H.
The B.O.H. is intimidating at first.There is a lot going on.Boulud runs his catering company from the
same property so there are like, 50 quadhundred Cooks running past you with
whole cuts of everything at all times.The staff are ridiculously polite if you follow universal laws of the
kitchen (Never use someones knife without permission, always yell out “BEHIND” when passing by, and if it happens in a kitchen, its not gay), and nobody says anything
dumb.
I had nothing to do with the catering aspect but everything
to do with the restaurant.As usual, I
was stationed with multiple high-octane stressed out Cooks to help out with prep and basically ask
whatever I wanted to about the menu.It’s obviously French.Go online
and read it here.
What caught my
attention in the kitchen was their strong emphasis for classic techniques. You are making a fava bean coulis?Blanch, shock, shuck, and vita-mix using beautiful
veg stock.No u-tex, xanthum, kitten
bone marrow or corn starches.Just
classic and perfect methods.That was my
big take away. Now it seems like most spots I
have worked before this were simply thinking too hard about technique.
The kitchen is hard to describe.Picture a square-style European professional
kitchen (with the range as your center), but turned into a triangle shape.Add some video monitors of the outside and
F.O.H. to gauge rushes or to creep on the celebrity guests and you got a Three-Michelin
rated DB kitchen.
To simply say the service is tight and controlled would be
an exercise in lazy writing.What is
truly bath salts fantastic at Daniel is most dishes are plated by Executive
Chef Jean-Francois Bruel or Chef de Cuisine Eddy Leroux.Here,
Cooks cook.While I was impressed to see
both Chefs working, it paled in comparison to when I was told to stand back
and observe Daniel Boulud, wearing his whites, expedite food.
I need to frame this into proper context for everyone to understand.A Cook being told to stand near the pass so Daniel
Boulud can start service is much along the lines of hearing, “Hey, can you sit
tight for a few so Neil here can warm up?”
So there I was, all 6’0” of me squeezing into what I hoped
was a tiny ball of invisibility so as to not interrupt what obviously was world
renowned culinary history in the happening.I felt like a time traveler going way back in the past trying not to
disturb anything in fear that I and I alone would screw up the future forever.
It was then when I nonchalantly shifted my weight from one foot to the other
and pumped an elbow right into the ribs of Boulud himself.In reality, it was not a big deal.I did not launch him or really do anything
aside from simply glance a man right in his chest cavity…where his heart is… I just
happened to physically touch him as he attempted to squeak by.However, that doesn’t matter. In my mind, I
had just sucker punched Mother Theresa in the back of the head.Up to this point, we had not yet met.He slowly turned, gracefully looked upwards to
my shivering soul and said “..and you are?”.
Sporting a grin like a contestant in the Miss America Pageant,
I answered “Jerek!” as I launched a hand out to show him I was not crazy.
A little jumpy and cautiously
reaching for my hand, he said, “Uh-huh, and how did you get here?”
Me (still smiling): “A Chef I know, well, knows your Chef de
Cuisine…”
DB: ”Eddy.”
Moi: “ and…Yes, Eddy! and so I am observing…”
DB: ”Ahhhhhh, great, I see.” Relaxing, he said, “ We
normally do not accept stagiaires here, but you know Eddy…”
Moi: “I do.” (Stopped shaking his hand about here)
DB: “So I hope you have a great time and you are here for
the weekend?”
Moi “Yes Chef” I said as I started to calm down my
breathing.
DB: “Excellent.What
do you think of my food?”
Moi “An epiphany.” (Kudos for the quick originality in that
answer)
DB: “Great, Thank you!”
Moi: “THANK YOU CHEF!!!” I said slightly too desperate, as
we ended our direct encounter.
I stayed the weekend.All in all it was as great as the reputation makes them out to be.I left them on the highest note I could
expect (contact info was offered all around) and I cannot wait to go back to
NYC just to be around them again.This
was true cooking at its finest.
So I really suck at maintaining a consistent and predictable timeline for this blog.FOR NOW ON I WILL SCREW MYSELF BY FORECASTING THE NEXT BOHK ENTRY.So, every two weeks seems like a good
idea.
NEXT FUN-TASTIC BLOG WILL BE POSTED AUGUST 4th, 2012!
I first got really intersted in Eric Ripert’s restaurant when
reading "On the line", a book about daily operations at Le Bernardin, the New York Times 4-starred rated establishment. They also have 3-michelin stars... No biggie.
What appealed to me most was
the emphasis of freshness and quality. Sauces… like
20 of them, are done daily. The book creates enough inspiration to give someone an aneurism. Their seafood is obviously
unmatched so there I was with a schoolyard crush when I reached out to Exec. Chef Chris Muller. Won't lie, I pretty much man-crushed all over the email so
he would give me the opportunity to stage at Le Bernardin. A week later I heard back; they would love to
have me (*gasps!) but they can only do Saturdays.
Come at 2pm, report to security, bring your own everything. Wicked.
They are located at Rockefeller Center and to get to the
kitchen is hilarious. First, find the
security door which is on the side of the high-rise building. Go through, find someone who looks like they
have dealt with intimidated stagiaires before (security). They will already have your name. Sorry, can’t show up on a random Saturday
and work, you need a reso to stage
here. The security will acknowledge your
existence, then lead you into what I only assume is an organized labyrinth of
underground hamster tunnels to confuse anyone from ever trying to sneak in on their own. Security will drop you off
into the butcher area for Le Bernardin.
At this point you are a guppy with the sharks. You better be a strong swimmer.
I love walking into restaurants as the new guy. Most
cooks assume you’re looking to work there when you're staging so their true colours show right off the bat. Occasionally you get younger cooks (usually 1 or 2 years out of culinary school) who
puff out their chests when someone new enters the kitchen. It’s fun to watch. They want instant respect. These types are never the Chef or anyone really higher then CDP. Its usually just a kid who will burn out
in a couple years because he hates his life. I
am like a pig in mud dealing with them. While I get a
little anxious to perform to my own standards and try not to embarrass myself, I am not there looking for a job. I am there to help, work for free, and learn. I do not know you, you do not know me, so expect to receive and give a professional level of respect. We are after-all, hospitality specialist before we're cooks. I find those in a kitchen who demand respect without earning it to be contradictory to the purpose of our whole profession. Hence, I find them incredibly amusing
both to witness, and then to passively screw with.
I only mention it because as soon as I entered the kitchen,
a skinny kid, 10 years my junior-who had no clue who I was, yelled for me to
move out of his way and that I should know better.
Not a problem. There on out I referred to him as “Chef” and asked him questions no cook wants to be called out on around his peers. ("Chef, what's the reasoning for not using a cutting board when dicing that pepper?").
The kitchen itself is utterly unique. The main line is
really made up of three parallel stations in which each cook has a place during
service. Confused? Sure, here’s what I mean. On the right side we start on cold apps ("Almost Raw"). There are nine different cold apps on the menu, nine fridges to hold the M.E.P. and nine cooks to handle the orders. One cook, one
plate. There are two scheduled seatings
on a typical night, so the nine cooks begin in cold apps. When the rush there ends, all nine cooks move to the next rush on hot apps ("Barely Touched"). This
is followed by the migration of stressed out but still happy cooks to fire the mains ("Lightly Cooked"). From a gawking spectator's point of view, its cool to see how
they keep the flow so smooth when they move all the way across the kitchen during service.
Before service, I helped cooks with their prep on different
stations, getting the chance to talk about their products and being sure to taste anything I deemed interesting (Octopus a la plancha!!!). Overall the
cooks are really great. Most will go on
to big things in the industry and just a couple will vanish (“Chef, did you want
that cream sauce at a rapid boil?”).
Most impressive were the sauces. The saucier gave me a formal tour of his
station and a breakdown of how he goes about it. It’s quite genius. This kid’s palette is never going to be
tested to the extent it is done now at Le Bernardin. I really envied him. All sauces are served french style because they
don’t really screw around with the viscosity.
It’s all very loose and 100% about the flavour. The taste and seasonings were perfectly
rounded.
The other highlight was to finally see the famous Tuna & Foie Gras Carpaccio dish in person. I
have read about it, and I have even put my own version on a menu once,
but now I got to see and experience how they do the original. It was better than mine. I am not sure how they manage to produce a
Tuna Carpaccio with perfectly smooth texture, but I know now how they do the
foie underneath it and finish the plate. Its knowledge I will always keep inside my
pants.
Overall, it was a very insightful night, irreplaceable in the experience and I am a better cook for being there. You want to learn seafood, sauces, and service, go to Le Bernardin. Thank you to Executive Chef Chris Muller, Chef de Cusine Eric Gestel, and the multitude of fantastic cooks for letting me hangout and who clearly showcase what makes them and their product world renowned.
FYI, after roasting gigantor lobster tails, blanch them in boiling water for 30 seconds. That will insure they do not stick to the shell.
Typical New Yorker. Have you ever been driving downtown and realized you just hate that no good t-shirt you're wearing? Well, in Manhattan, stop the car in the middle of a green-lit intersection, remove ugly shirt, showoff your rolls/fur, turn up music, ignore the horns, look for - and eventually find wrinkled worn out golf-tee, put on, then drive through red-lit intersection.
I went to NYC to be a stagiaire at three of North America’s
top restaurants. To be sure, I will blog on those spots individually, but I
also went to a lot of places where I was there just as a foodie.
I socially media’ed (new word) the crap out of my trip
at the time, but did not do the city adequate justice. To be brief, NYC is culinary Viagra to
facilitate ones addiction to food porn.
Inside the kitchens are a bunch of kids, most straight out
of very expensive culinary schools. They’re YOUNG, fresh, and not-as-yet
feeling the long-term effects of the 4 cans of Red Bull they call lunch/dinner. They are motivated, passionate and have a
flare for tattoos everywhere. Most are fantastically nice. The odd guy is a douche who is always
skinnier than me.
Outside the kitchen, NYC is the top pinnacle gastronomic destination probably in the history of mankind. Think of it; at what other time and place
will you source out, find, and have such a wide array of great quality food in
such close proximity? I hit as many places I could remember in my fantasies
(Babbo, Momofuku Noodle Bar, The Spotted Pig) and was rarely disappointed
(David Burke).
Okay, I shut up now and let pictures do the talking.
I love everything Mario does. This was a place I actually waited outside at 11:30am on a rainy Thursday just to be sure I could get in. (Only one there...)
Antipasti - Asparagus "Milanese" with a Duck Egg ($15) was three poached asparagus with a sunny-side duck egg on top and shaved parm. $15 for that eh...
Primi - Pappardelle Bolognese ($20) When in Rome... This was actually perfect. So happy.
Dolci E Formaggi - Olive Oil and Rosemary Cake with Olive Oil Gelato ($13) was refreshing and texturally beautiful.
Just walked in at 2:30 and sat at the bar with no problem.
Yuzu Soju Slushy ($5) I could seriously develop an addictive personality with this one.
Buns - Pork, hoisin, scallion, cucumber ($10) Amongst cooks, these are famous. You go to NYC and they will ask if you have tried them. I have. They are meth-addictingly wicked.
Side - Soya Egg, crispy shallot, chive ($2) Momofuku has menu items that are $2.
I managed to check out a taping of the Daily Show with Jon Stewart while in town. Fun times, but more relevant to this blog, a bunch of lesbians picked me up while in line and brought me to a bar for pre-show drinking where they specialize in $4 glasses of wine and Tater Tots...
Here is Tater Tots, Franks Redhot, and Blue Cheese.
What a cool spot. At 4:00pm it was still bustling. It's hipster/feminine attitude throughout, but what caught my attention most was the cooks wearing chef jackets and shorts...
Routinely acknowledged as one of the top spots of a slice in NY, Sal and Carmine is located on Broadway towards the Bronx. It is worth the trip. I think it's just Sal now, but they have been open since 1959 and everything (from the decor, to the recipes) are apparently the same. Sal does not talk much. Just order the slice and put $4 down. Perfect ratio of cheese to sauce, the right toothiness, and a good amount of grease. Go.
Check it out. A wide variety of fresh mushrooms. I have never seen this before. Eataly is both a grocery and casual dining spot. It is the kind of spot you can sip moscato and have a plate of parma while eye-balling what fresh Ricotta Gnudi you'll take home. If the rent wasn't $3000 comparable to here...
Beer Garden on a rooftop above Eataly, this is a bad place to be right before doing a stagiaire at one of the most respected restaurants in the world. REGARDLESS I soldiered on. The food was a perfect 10/10.
Biroldo - ($21) Toscana inspired blood sausage served with cannellini beans and pickled turnips. Best blood sausage I have ever had.
This place is where you bring a hot girl to. This is not the place you go when you are male, alone, and rely on your blackberry as a crutch companion. I was out of sorts with this one, but it was a necessary trip. This place is known for its $1000 Golden Opulence Sundae, which I did not order as I have a mortgage and brain. I did sip a chocolate cappuccino which was tasty but awkward as I faced three girls who I could tell where trying to figure out if I were a danger to them. The place is charming enough and the next time I am around, I will be happy to bring my wife.
I have been meaning
to casually mention/sneak into the convo/flat out brag that I ended up with a thermal
circulator at home. I did not pay for
it. It was a gift that proves if you drool over something hard
enough, Julia Child will somehow make it happen. She is the spiritual transglutaminase in my life. Molecular
enthusiasts would find that clever.
Critics of the sous-vide technique have called it “dead-cooking”. That is true.
This is actually what makes it so great with some products. The less
certain foods are handled, the better the integrity and final outcome can be.
I recently
bought 4 AA grade 16 oz. ribeyes from Galen Weston Jr. He charged me $6.06 lbs. That is an awesome loss leader. I took them home and came to realize;
a) 16oz. steaks are ridiculously big enough to
emotionally abuse even the toughest of colons so better clear the schedule… and
b) AA Grade Beef is
not comparable to Prime/Wagyu/Kobe, which you get use to working in the industry... Evidently, my palate was an only child.
So sous-vide it is.
Marinade with red wine vinegar, olive oil, garlic, shallot,
toasted mustard seeds, thyme, rosemary, black pepper and vacuum seal each
steak individually. Place them in the
fridge with all the care, emotions, and excitement of holding a new child.
No rush here, let it
graze on its juices for at least 24 hours.
To sous-vide,
set the temp. for 110f. I love rare. In fact, someday there will be a tombstone
with Jerek “Kept it Rare” Bowman somewhere.
Anywho, the steaks are placed for 2.5 hours* in the bath.
*longer if terms like "danger zone" appeal to you...
After said time, you get to remove them. Notice the
tenderness? ISN’T IT
STUPID?? HA! At this point you need a charcoal bbq that
can hit 600 degrees. Get that going.
Okay, remove the steaks
from the baggies and empty the liquid flavour of holy greatness into a sauce pot
on low heat. Check the seasoning. Should
be substantial. You are eating 16 ounces of red meat- might as well quadruple
the sodium quota here.
Season the steaks.
Using the bbq on full-metal blast, scorch the surface areas as fast as
possible. The idea is to caramelize the exterior while retaining the fantastic
tenderness in the inside. So, like, 1
minute on each side (and keep the lid down) only. Remove the steaks from the grill, let rest for 3 minutes, pour the
reserved juice over them and serve. As a side I usually go with a spinach risotto
because it’s starchy, fatty, cheesy, helps absorb strong booze and spinach is
good for you.
I must thank Colin Van Sickle for moving to Baku and not
wanting the hassle of owning a thermal circulator anymore. I still am in shock.
Kuzu cake stuffed w/tomato, plum sauce (Loved this dish, very concentrated flavours, the plum doing very well paired with tomato.)
Deep dried fish cake & bamboo shoot dressed w/ bonito flake (I was not the only non-Japanese Chef at the table to assume you could eat the bamboo sleeve.)
Tuna fat, soya sauce, mountain potato, egg yolk (Uh, yeah, my new favorite four ingredients)
Conch clam & mango sunomono (Not convinced Kaji himself handled this... please don't hate me...9 out of 10 still gets the job done...)
Butter squash cake stuffed w/ chicken (Loved the dashi flavour in the puree)
Grilled Mutsu fish-Saikyo style- (By now we had had enough sake to warm up to our serious but friendly server and told her what the garnish on this plate is called in English.)
Pressed Eel (The rice. I am ruined forever now. I have tasted why it's taken so seriously. The texture. The temperature. The flavours. My heart. I can only imagine what this guy thinks of Philadelphia rolls.)
Ocean Trout, Salmon Caviar Sushi (fyi, the caviar was as fresh as the fish.)
Tuna Threesome (Flesh, Belly, Fat)
Go to Kaji.
If I actually post a review, it's because the place has influenced a flood of original ideas I have not seen before, creating culinary waves like a tsu...
...like how Kaji very much impressed me this past week.
When you hear of a place where ridiculously talented chefs like Toronto's Scott Woods stagiaire under to learn, go. It's a safe bet their $120 10-course table d'hote menu will turn into a lot of excitement in your pants.
This is why I went to Kaji with a half dozen cooks. Named after its owner, the locale for the restaurant is so cool it hasn't even been gentrified yet.
There is no a la carte menu, only the choice of two tasting menus updated daily to suit what Kaji brings in. Oh, his ingredients? All from Japan. His fish? Flown in from Tokyo Bay the same day he performs culinary surgery on them. Nothing is used tomorrow.
His soya? From scratch. It's a miracle in a room full of agnostics... or something else that describes mind blowing... It's slightly thicker than what you are using, has about half the salt content (STAY WITH ME), and carries an almost fruity taste. It seriously caused all six adult professional Chefs I was with to first slurp then pretty much make out with the sauce holders when we ran out of sashimi to dip it in.
Sake may have had some influence...
Beneith the photos are Kaji's precise name descriptions, anything in brackets is me. First link is for Kaji's place, and I have attached incredible apres high-end sushi meal music that you must blare in a car filled with drunken chefs.
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